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SEPTEMBER 2025
Champagne Hélène: Getting Serious about the Côtes des Blancs

When we first launched Extra Brut, the idea was simple: give our Champagne lovers a deeper look at the grower revolution, boutique brands, and the incredible range of wines they continue to produce. Over the months, we've explored stylistic contrasts, grape variety spotlights, and even the impact of climate and elevation. 

This month, we’re making it simpler. We’re going to take a region – one of the best regions! – and start drilling down. 

The Côte des Blancs is the cradle of Chardonnay in Champagne, and its chalky slopes have given birth to some of the most ethereal and long-lived wines in the region – or anywhere in the world for that matter! Names like Le Mesnil, Avize, and Cramant resonate with  collectors and sommeliers, but the true magic lies in their fine-grained distinctions — the subtle differences in exposure, chalk depth, and elevation that make each village unique.

This month, we focus on Champagne Hélène, a new project from up-and-coming grower Pierre Hugot. Pierre’s family has been growing grapes in the Côtes des Blancs since 1891 and the winery is named after his great grandmother. Before taking over the family vineyards and also beginning a burgeoning micro-négociant project, Pierre worked at a few iconic estates in Burgundy and Champagne, including Liger-Belair, Roulout and Suenen. Today we’re excited to share two extraordinary wines that Pierre selected for his micro-négoce from likeminded friends and through rigorous blind tastings. The wines were chosen for their clarity of terroir expression and pure deliciousness. Pierre finished the bottle-aging and performed the riddling, disgorgement and dosage himself.

To start this village-level journey: a tank-aged Grand Cru blend of old-vine Chardonnay that offers a sweeping view of the chalk-infused character of Grand Cru Côte des Blancs, and an oak-aged single-village bottling from Vertus that drills down into one great village's identity with stunning clarity.

EXTRA BRUT PICK NO. 1

Our thoughts on this selection

This wine is the Côte des Blancs on a widescreen. It blends fruit from four Grand Cru villages — Avize, Oger, Cramant, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger — all of them paragons of chalk and Chardonnay. But these aren’t just any parcels. They’re from old vines, carefully selected for their low yields and deep-rooted expression of terroir. The base vintage is 2018, a warm year that brought generosity, but it’s been tempered by vinification and élevage in stainless-steel tanks to maintain freshness and a firm mineral core that keeps everything in balance.

What’s most striking about this cuvée is its sense of completeness. You get the floral lift of Cramant, the tension of Le Mesnil, the mid-palate creaminess of Avize, and the ripe, golden tones of Oger — all in harmony, all stitched together with fine chalky structure. There’s an elegant classicism here, a feeling that you’re tasting not just a vintage or a village, but the platonic ideal of what Côtes des Blancs Chardonnay should taste like.

EXTRA BRUT PICK NO. 2

Our thoughts on this selection

If the Grand Cru blend is the wide-angle lens, this bottle is the close-up — a deep dive into the particular magic of Vertus, the southernmost village in the Côte des Blancs and one of its most dynamic. Technically a Premier Cru (though many believe it deserves Grand Cru status), Vertus stands apart for its dual exposures: some vineyards face east, like the Grand Cru villages, others south, and the soils range from pure chalk to more clay-rich zones. This complexity gives Vertus wines a reputation for power and personality.

Hélène’s Vertus bottling comes from old vines in the clay-rich southern section of the village. It’s built on the powerful and highly-acclaimed 2019 vintage which delivers the perfect balance of ripeness and fine-grained detail. The vin-clair for this cuvée aged in older oak barrels bringing a gentle kiss of toastiness to the bright, crunchy white fruit.

What jumps out first is the tension — a kind of coiled energy that tames the wine’s natural ripeness and salinity. There’s real depth here – look for an additional layer of flavors below the obvious ones (Something savory? Some pastry notes?). Pay attention while you drink this wine, and you’ll be rewarded. 



GROWER CHAMPAGNE

A guide to the best bubbles in the world and what makes them different from the Grandes Marques

Champagne is the world’s most famous sparkling wine. Hailing from the Champagne regions of France, its biggest names are among the biggest names in wine: Moet, Dom Perignon, Veuve Clicquot, Cristal.

But there’s another side to Champagne: a universe of small-scale producers preserving ancient family farming traditions and bottling wines you’ve never heard of.

These are the Grower Champagnes.

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