Bairrada is one of Portugal’s many small, relatively unknown regions. In some ways, it’s quite Burgundian — there is one dominant red grape variety (Baga) and one white (Bical); the wines made here are generally quite balanced in terms of alcohol, acidity, and body; there’s a bustling trade in sparkling wine, though these bubbles are overshadowed by the still options; and there’s a lot of limestone in the soils here in Central Portugal.
Of course, the similarities end when we talk about climatic conditions, fame of individual vignerons, and perhaps most importantly, price. Even the most sought-after Baga wines, from the most prime parcels of old vines, top off at about $150 a bottle. Burgundy could never.
Filipa Pato is a true daughter of Bairrada — her father Luis is one of the best-known names in Bairrada. Wine lovers adore him for his earthy, soulful, long-aged wines; his neighbors think he’s a bit nuts for cellaring those wines for years (even decades!) before release. Filipa and her Belgian husband/co-owner William Wouters live literally among the vines of Baga and Bical, close to her Luis and her sister Maria, who oversees day-to-day operations for Luis.
Where her father strives to make intense, herbal, and structured wines, Filipa favors elegance and playfulness. Her sparkling wines are must-haves for our Portuguese section, but we especially cherish her lower-production still wines, especially the Dinamica duo we’re featuring today.
The Tinto is 100% Baga, a versatile grape, difficult to grow (like Pinot Noir), with thin skins, high acid and bountiful red fruits. In Bairrada, the chalky, clayey soils and maritime influence lend great minerality and tons of freshness. Dinamica Branca is a blend of 80% Bical and 20% Arinto, a crisp and energetic wine that bursts with stone fruit, citrus, and crushed rock minerality. Fans of Loire Valley whites will find a lot to love here.
Her wines expertly toe the line between delicacy and power, and they consistently manage to capture minerality and terroir. In short, we love them and we can’t believe how well-priced they are.
Filipa Pato, Bairrada Dinamica Tinto, 2024 $22.99
While Luis Pato’s wines are big, brawny and unyielding, his daughter Filipa’s are delicate and pretty, with vivacious fruit and subtle floral notes. Dinamica Tinto is 100% Baga and shows off the paler side of the grape, with lots of strawberry, crushed violets and red cherry flavors.
Filipa Pato, Bairrada Dinamica Branco, 2024 $22.99
Filipa Pato is the daughter of Luis, and is in her own right one of Portugal’s most exciting and talented winemakers. This is a blend of 80% Bical and 20% Arinto from calcareous soils — lightly perfumed, with flavors of white peach, lime, and pear.
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