We usually hype up the Canary Islands, Sicily’s Mount Etna, and the Greek island of Santorini as the premier destinations for volcanic wines. These places are undeniably volcanic in origin, with black, fertile soils and in some cases, still active peaks.

But volcanic wine isn’t necessarily synonymous with island wine. One of the most fascinating volcanic wines we’ve tasted in some time come from the landlocked country of Hungary, specifically the area surrounding Lake Balaton. Made from the native Hungarian grapes Furmint and Juhfark, these wines offer a medley of generous fruit notes, refreshing acidity and that unique savory minerality imparted by volcanic soils.

Somló is unique not just for its rich volcanic soils; it’s also one of the rare wine regions where only white grapes are allowed. Generations ago, the vineyards were mostly owned by rich aristocrats or the church, but today, people like Tamás Kis are setting up shop with a few hectares and making outstanding wines simply oozing with mineral complexity.

Tamás worked in Eger — famous for Bull’s Blood, a particularly dark and rich blend — before buying a tiny piece of land in Somló. He named his winery “Somlói Vandor”, or Somló wanderer, as a nod to his frequent trips across Hungary. The farming is organic, and he uses a mix of used French and Hungarian oak for fermentation and aging.

Juhfark ('Yoo-Fahrk') is a savory, mineral-expressive grape indigenous to Somló, with flavors of apples, almond, white pepper and tangerine; this is the best vintage we’ve tasted yet of this beguiling variety, with tons of volcanic character. Furmint is a little better known, and is grown all over Hungary — it’s an important component of the country’s famed Tokaji wine. In Somlói, it’s lush and golden, with flavors of wildflowers, peach, dried apricot and honey, a little Chenin-esque in its frame.

We love featuring under-the-radar producers like Somlói Vandor — these are world class wines that deserve to be enjoyed and appreciated, yet the obscurity of the region means that few retailers would even stock them. We’re also lucky to have a curious and passionate readership, and we know you’ll love these mineral-laden, intensely volcanic wines from a little-known corner of the world.

Somloi Vandor, Furmint, 2022 $24.99

Somloi Vandor, Juhfark, 2022 $24.99