This is a Rosso? My guess is baby Brunello. Bravo.

—Eric Guido, Vinous

Sangiovese from Tuscany may be the best source of under-$30 red wine in the world. But which Sangiovese exactly? Is it a racy Chianti Classico? An elegant Vino Nobile di Montepulciano?

Today, we’ll make the case that — at least with the delicious 2022s that are now coming on the market — your best and finest source of under $30 value in Sangiovese comes from Rosso di Montalcino. This would not have been our answer 10 years ago, when Rosso was an afterthought for Brunello producers, like a second wine in Bordeaux, produced only to improve the 1st wine by excluding lesser material. Today’s growers — good growers — take Rosso seriously, and today’s Rosso from Voliero is seriously good.

Voliero’s strategy is to make their Rosso from the property’s younger vines, around 15-25 years old. Those vines are located in the same great terroirs that produce their magnificent Brunello, featured in this newsletter a few weeks ago — two high altitude vineyards in the villages of Castelnuovo dell’Abate and Sant’Angelo. A full 40% of Voliero’s Sangiovese is dedicated to this wine.

And it gets Brunello treatment — almost. It goes into the same giant wooden casks, but is aged for a shorter period of time, just 11 months, to produce a fresher version of Sangiovese (and, of course, to free up the casks for the next year’s harvest). We hate using terms like “baby Brunello”, but hey, Eric Guido said it, not us (his full review is below).


Voliero, Rosso di Montalcino, 2022 $29.99
"A gorgeous translucent ruby color, the 2022 Rosso di Montalcino is dark and more intense than most wines in its category. It opens with masses of dried black cherry, smoke traces, grilled herbs and dusty violets. It's creamy in texture yet lifted and refined with a pure core of ripe strawberry complemented by cloves. Rosy inner florals dance throughout. Complex yet giving, the 2022 tapers off potent and long with a tug of fine tannins and autumnal spices. This is a Rosso? My guess is baby Brunello. Bravo."

 

This story was originally featured in our newsletter, where it was offered at a special subscribers-only discount. Subscribers get special offers, the first look at new discoveries, invites to events, and stories about wines and the artisans that make them.