Cramant, Avize, Oger and Oiry — if you’re a diehard Champagne aficionado (or just a regular reader of this newsletter), you might recognize these four Grand Cru villages as some of the best terroir not just in France, but in the world.

They are in the Côte des Blancs, Champagne's Chardonnay country. With its thin, chalky soils, this region is known for elegant wines with a distinct mineral backbone; some of Champagne’s most famous names (Krug, Salon, Billecart-Salmon) have holdings here. But more interestingly, it’s where Agrapart is based — one of the earliest Champagne growers to emerge, and still one of the best.

Elegance is the name of the game here; Agrapart’s “7 Crus” has a fine mousse, a linear structure, and bright flavors of fresh apple and lemon, a hint of crisp pie crust and a dash of salt. Four Grand Cru terroirs, in one bottle? Sign us up!

“7 Crus” comes from 7 different villages in the Côte des Blancs: the aforementioned Avize, Oger, Oiry, and Cramant, as well as Avenay Val d'Or, Bergères les Vertus, and Mardeuil. It’s 90% Chardonnay (not much of a surprise there) with 10% Pinot Noir, intended to show off the bounty of the CdB’s chalk soils. It’s energetic and lively, with a chorus of fruit flavors — orchard-fresh peach, apricot, and pear; zesty lemon — bolstered by savory limestone goodness and a faint floral whiff.

Agrapart has been doing the grower Champagne thing since the 1890s. It’s no surprise that “7 Crus” is an outstanding example of what Champagne’s best terroir can yield, especially in the hands of true experts. We’ve just received the newest release of this familiar favorite, and we have just enough to share with you all today. But don’t wait — Grand Cru terroir at a fair price never lasts too long.

Agrapart et Fils, Champagne 7 Crus Extra Brut [Base 2020/2021], NV $89.99