In the past 400 years, not much has changed at Château le Puy. They farm their limestone-and-clay terroir on a plateau just outside of Saint-Émilion without chemicals — just like in the 17th century.

They fastidiously tend their vines of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and a teensy bit of Sémillon (they’re certified biodynamic), harvesting everything by hand. Nothing is added during the winemaking process: they use only native yeasts, there is no chaptalization nor SO2 during fermentation, and the process is determined by the lunar cycle.

The Amoreau family, led by father-and-son team Jean-Pierre and Pascal, have long bucked the expectations held by most Bordeaux vignerons. Long before “sustainability” was a buzzword at the major châteaux, they were working as simply as possible. It’s been nearly a decade since Neal Rosenthal began importing this idiosyncratic and genuinely artisanal estate; the wines have gone from obscure to coveted, not just because of their commitment to low-intervention winemaking and organic farming, but also the consistently high quality each and every vintage.

Long-time readers will recognize today’s cuvées: the easy-drinking Duc de Nauves and Emilien, Le Puy’s flagship wine.

“Duc de Nauves” is maybe the most charming wine in all of Bordeaux. It’s built to be drunk on release – aged just a year in cement – and tastes like the freshest, silkiest Saint-Emilion you've ever tasted. A blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s juicy and bright, but not simple, with fine tannins and an elegant perfume. \

The more serious Emilien ages one year in large (50 hectoliter) foudres, and followed by another year aging in small (225L) barrels. All of the oak is old and neutral, imparting a roundness and completeness to the wine, without any oaky flavors. It's a truly age-worthy wine, too: about a decade ago, we enjoyed a spectacular 1975. But you don't need to wait decades to open a bottle — it's a perfect accompaniment to autumn's heartier foods or a nicely marbled steak. It’s substantial but freshly styled, with notes of dried cherries, leather, herbs, and damp earth.

Château Le Puy, VdF "Duc des Nauves", 2023 $24.99

Château Le Puy, VdF "Emilien", 2022 $47.99