Old-vine, high-elevation Grenache, from a traditional and multigenerational estate, with bottle age — we can hardly believe we can offer such a wine for less than $20. Sometimes, all that glitters really is gold.

For two centuries, the Boisson family has farmed a handful of hectares in the hills of the Southern Rhône, in the tiny village of Cairanne. We just received a shipment of 2013 Cairanne ‘L’Exigence’, bottled while the village’s wines were still labeled as Côtes du Rhône, and it is in an absolutely beautiful place right now.

L’Exigence comes from old vines: 80% Grenache with 10% each Syrah and Mourvèdre for some earthiness and structure. The vines were planted back in the 1950s on clay-limestone slopes covered in rocks. It’s a rich, yet racy iteration of a Rhône red, with garrigue-accented black and red fruits, layers of savory earth and mushroom, and plenty of spice box notes. It’s a gorgeous, totally under-the-radar bottle that we’re thrilled to share with you today.

The Southern Rhône is often viewed as a monolith: opulent red wines and unctuous whites, oozing with Mediterranean sunshine. But each tiny hamlet in this region has something distinctive to offer; in Cairanne’s case, it’s a particularly lovely freshness unique to windswept locales.

Compared to nearby Gigondas, known for bold, spicy reds, or Rasteau, known for vins doux naturels, or sweet fortified wines, Cairanne enjoys a stronger Mistral wind and higher elevations. This wine doesn’t just keep the wines super fresh, it also provides a perfect environment for organic farming and healthy, clean fruit.

Domaine Boisson, Cairanne Cuvée L'Exigence, 2013 $19.99