Pouillon Single Vineyards
The Pouillon family has always had a collection of parcels in the best villages of Champagne, but it took Fabrice, the current vigneron, to start the practice of bottling them on their own. When you consider who farms his neighboring plots, Anselm Selosse, Philipponnat, and Chiquet you start to wonder what took them so long.
His Blanchiens is credited by Peter Liem as "the clearest expression of these clay slopes" and the debut of Le Montgruguet from the chalk-exposed upper slopes above the Clos des Goisses illuminating side by side comparisons of the super-premier cru, Mareuil-Sur-Aÿ. And the Valnons from Aÿ is one of only two vinous Blanc de Blancs produced on this Pinot-laden hill of kings.
Thanks to Fabrice's unyielding attention to the vineyards and delicate handling in the cellar we are entreated to a some of the finest made, yet, under-the-radar wines in the region.
R Pouillon et Fils, Champagne 1er Cry Extra Brut Le Montgruguet Pinot Noir, 2016
The greater Montgruguet hill is home to some of the most celebrated lieux dits in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, including Selosse’s Sous le Mont and the famed Clos des Goisses. Pouillon’s "Le Montgruguet" comes from the hilltop above Les Goisses, near the Notre Dame du Gruguet, where all topsoil has eroded away leaving a pure chalk island along the banks of the Marne. 2016 marks the debut of this new cuvée which is a blend of 100% pinot noir from two microparcels on this hilltop: La Croix Blanche and Varille.
"A wine that's simultaneously creamy and austere, it's singular in personality demonstrating the chalky finesse of its grand cru terroir"
-- Peter Liem, Champagne
The name of this cuvée is short for “les Valnons Froid Cul”—a famous and cold hill in Aÿ. This wine embodies a very unique and rare experience: tasting true blanc de blancs from one of the best situated slopes in Aÿ, a grand cru famous for rich, articulate pinot noir. This wine delivers clear mineral verve with distinctive richness and intense texture. It ages for 18 months in neutral barrique before aging sur latte another 4 years.
"...produces a savory, spicy wine, reflecting the richness of the site's clay soils in its ample presence on the palate" -- Peter Liem, Champagn
Les Blanchiens is a mono-cru in Mareuil. This wine is an equal blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, fermented separately in used barriques. This vintage cuvee speaks the terroir of Mareuil with grace and authority. Unique aromatics of black tea and bitter orange lead to an ultra-long, delineated palate. The wine has plenty of drive and power without being heavy or dull. It sees the same aging regimen as the Valnon and is a personal favorite.