FX Pichler, Gruner Veltliner Smaragd "M", 2007

Name: FX Pichler, Gruner Veltliner Smaragd "M", 2007
Brand: Private
SKU: NYC-[CNSN]-TTSUMMER0826-092226-185-20
Price: 129.99 USD
Availability: InStock

White Wine from Wachau, Austria

$129.99

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The Pichlers' single-vineyard wines are meant to show soil and origin, and the "M" is where they deliberately set that aside and go for richness, density and concentration first. The letter stands for Monumental. The first Grüner Veltliner M, made in 1991, was meant as a monument to the grape, and the family insists that every M has to stand clearly apart from their Ried bottlings. The blend changes from year to year. Most of it comes from the oldest terraces on the Loibenberg, one of the steepest and most barren slopes in Loiben, almost entirely south-facing, with sandy, stony soil over Gföhler gneiss. The rest is a careful selection from several top sites lower down. The M grapes usually stay on the vine one to two weeks after the estate's other top wines have been picked, and the Grüner version is always made dry. The family says the M is built to last for decades, and this 2007 has had well over fifteen years to show whether they're right. As a bonus, it still carries the Smaragd designation from before the estate left the Vinea Wachau growers' association in 2020.

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Antonio Galloni

95 points

"Medium green-yellow. Aeration reveals a clean nose completely free of botrytis influence: honey-drizzled pineapple lifted by crushed green peppercorn. Powerful in the mouth, with prune, fig, mango and pineapple elements making a sweet, rather baroque impression. But the wine's major richness is leavened by brilliant, harmonious acidity, giving it outstanding finesse. This wine is somewhat more approachable than the Kellerberg, which typically requires more time in bottle to express itself. Finishes with impressive length and great potential for further development over the next decade or more." —Peter Moser

Robert Parker

92 points

"The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd M – coming largely from the Loibeneberg, but like the corresponding Kellerberg having been harvested late in November and early in December – features mango, maracuja, apricot, and black fruits in a ripely-scented, lush melange which suggests honeyed richness and sweetness on account of its glycerin, botrytis, and sheer extract. Hints of tobacco, mint, and pepper add to a voluminous, low-toned impression and a finish that remains sappy and satisfying. This should be worth following for at least 5-7 years." —David Schildknecht

More about FX Pichler

F.X. Pichler has often been called the greatest winemaker in Austria and is certainly an icon.

His son Lucas Pichler has taken over the estate and continues the tradition of producing mouth-filling, complex wines from their ancient holdings in the Kellerberg and Loibenberg.

The wines can tend towards opulent and exotic but with time open up to new layers. The layers deepen and complicate more, the longer you can keep yourself from drinking it.

Wine Details

Grape Variety

Gruner Veltliner
Vintage

2007
Size

750ml
Farming Practice

Traditional
Style

Crisp
Sweetness

Dry
Body

Medium Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Wiener schnitzel with potato-cucumber salad; roast pork belly with caraway and braised cabbage; white asparagus with hollandaise and ham; veal blanquette with mushrooms; hot-smoked trout with horseradish cream.

Tasting Profile

Expect an opulent Wachau Smaragd Grüner Veltliner: ripe yellow fruit and white pepper, with the smoky, stony minerality and hint of tobacco typical of Loibenberg's gneiss terraces. Late picking typically gives a full, dense body, yet it stays fully dry, with firm acidity carrying a long, savoury finish. Think grand cru white Burgundy weight, with more spice.