FX Pichler, Riesling Dürnsteiner Kellerberg 'Loibner Hollerin' Smaragd, 2005

Name: FX Pichler, Riesling Dürnsteiner Kellerberg 'Loibner Hollerin' Smaragd, 2005
Brand: Private
SKU: NYC-[CNSN]-TTSUMMER0826-092226-268-29
Price: 89.99 USD
Availability: InStock

White Wine from Wachau, Austria

$89.99

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This 2005 Kellerberg Smaragd lets you test the Pichler family's boldest claim about their prized vineyard: after years in bottle, they say, Kellerberg Riesling and Grüner Veltliner become hard to tell apart, because the site takes over from the grape. The Kellerberg sits on Gföhler gneiss, a metamorphic bedrock, and faces southeast. That angle sheltered it from the prevailing winds of the Ice Ages and left pockets of fine loess behind, and erosion has since mixed that loess into the rock. The family credits this mix with the site's rich, bold style. Lucas Pichler made the wines from the 1999 vintage on, including this one, while his father F.X. kept tending the vines, and he doesn't hedge: a wine from the Kellerberg is always a grand wine. It was a Kellerberg Riesling, the 1990, that first made the estate's name outside Austria. The label itself is now a piece of history: the estate has left the Vinea Wachau growers' association after 38 years, so current Kellerberg bottlings are labelled 'Ried Kellerberg' instead. If you've wondered what top Wachau Riesling turns into with real age, this is a bottle to open with curious friends, not one to keep locked away.

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Robert Parker

95 points

"The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg (tasted from cask) offers ripe pit fruits and only subtle pepperiness in the nose, then comes on the palate rich and full (with 14.2% alcohol) yet sappy and bright as well. This lacks the multi-dimensionality of the very best Kellerberg Rieslings at this address, nor has it the poise and dynamic of the Loibenberg. But there is such opulent richness of fruit together with such a seemingly inexhaustible wealth of juicy citricity and subtly peppery minerality that one cannot help but be deeply impressed. My experience suggests that as it betrays at most the faintest hint of heat, this wine’s alcohol will not catch up with it as it ages." —David Schildknecht

More about FX Pichler

F.X. Pichler has often been called the greatest winemaker in Austria and is certainly an icon.

His son Lucas Pichler has taken over the estate and continues the tradition of producing mouth-filling, complex wines from their ancient holdings in the Kellerberg and Loibenberg.

The wines can tend towards opulent and exotic but with time open up to new layers. The layers deepen and complicate more, the longer you can keep yourself from drinking it.

Wine Details

Grape Variety

Riesling
Vintage

2005
Size

750ml
Farming Practice

Traditional
Style

Crisp
Sweetness

Dry
Body

Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Wiener schnitzel with lingonberry; roast pork loin with apricots; pan-fried trout with brown butter and almonds; lobster with drawn butter; roast chicken with morels in cream sauce; aged Gruyère or Bergkäse.

Tasting Profile

Expect the rich, powerful style of Wachau Smaragd Riesling: ripe yellow peach, pineapple and passion fruit over a striking stony minerality. It's fully dry and full-bodied, with firm acidity keeping it precise. With bottle age, the style typically turns more savoury and mineral, finishing long.