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Zind-Humbrecht, Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl, 1996

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A nearly 30-year-old dry Pinot Gris from Clos Windsbuhl, a high, late-ripening hillside in Hunawihr whose steady acidity Zind-Humbrecht calls a guarantee of good ageing. The Clos sits at around 350 meters (high for Alsace) and faces south to south-east on thin shelly limestone (Muschelkalk). Mid-slope, the bedrock often breaks the surface. That altitude means budburst and flowering come two to three weeks after the region's earlier sites, and the Clos is usually one of the last vineyards the domaine picks. Hunawihr's reputation goes back a long way: old archives show its wines once sold for three times the price of wines from other villages. Zind-Humbrecht bought the Clos in 1987, so this 1996 was only the domaine's ninth vintage from the site, made the year before the estate began farming biodynamically. If you've ever wondered what a serious Alsace site does with time, this bottle will show you.

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Robert Parker

95 points

"Artichoke liqueur and hints of tangy citrus fruits are found in the aromatics of the pale straw-colored 1996 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl. Broad, opulent, and medium-to-full-bodied, this wine's well-defined flavor profile is crammed with honeyed yellow fruits and candied lemons." —Pierre Rovani

Wine Spectator

91 points

"Saturated with ripe guava and smoke flavors, this '96 white is luscious and vibrant. The firm backbone drives the flavors, ending on orange peel and grapefruit notes that resonate on the palate."

More about Zind-Humbrecht

Zind-Humbrecht is one of the reference points of Alsace: about 40 hectares of biodynamically farmed vines, a string of grand crus and walled clos, and Olivier Humbrecht in charge, who in 1989 became the first Frenchman to qualify as a Master of Wine.

The Humbrechts have grown vines in Alsace since 1620. The domaine as it stands dates from 1959, when Léonard Humbrecht married Geneviève Zind and merged the two family estates. Léonard pushed hard for low yields and great sites, and planted the Clos Saint Urbain in the 1970s. That is the domaine's monopole within the Rangen de Thann, the southernmost grand cru in Alsace, very steep and on volcanic soil. Olivier took over the winemaking in 1989 and moved the vineyards to organic farming (certified 1998) and biodynamics (certified 2002). His son Pierre-Émile joined in 2019. The cellars are in Turckheim, and the holdings also include the Brand, Hengst and Goldert grand crus and the Clos Windsbuhl, Clos Jebsal and Clos Hauserer.

In the cellar: whole-cluster pressing, native yeasts, and long lees aging in large casks. The wines are rich and textured with real depth, and the sweetness varies from wine to wine. Since the 2001 vintage each label carries a 1-to-5 sweetness index, so check it before you open the bottle.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Gris

  • Vintage

    1996

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Aromatic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork loin with apples, guinea fowl with wild mushrooms, or a slice of Alsatian onion tart. It's full-bodied enough for seared foie gras or a well-aged Munster.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic dry, full-bodied Alsace Pinot Gris profile: ripe pear, quince and a smoky, spicy edge, with a rich, almost oily texture (closer to white Burgundy in weight than to Pinot Grigio). High limestone sites typically keep the acidity steady, and with long bottle age the fruit tends to move toward dried apricot, beeswax and mushroom, finishing long and savoury.