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Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo, 2017

$269.00
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A Bartolo Mascarello Barolo you won't have to wait a generation for. 2017 was a hot, dry year in Barolo, and it made wines with warm-year ripeness, surprising freshness and tannins that don't bite. Rainfall hit record lows, a spring frost destroyed some early buds and cut yields, and rain and cooler weather only arrived in late August and September. Even so, the wines aren't overripe or overly alcoholic. They'll age well over the medium term, but they aren't built for the long haul the way 2016 or 2010 are, and that's no bad thing from a house whose Barolo is famously tough when young. The estate has stood for strict Barolo traditionalism since it was officially founded in 1918. Maria Teresa Mascarello, who took over from her legendary father Bartolo, does something unusual even among the purists: rather than blending finished parcels, the house ferments its vineyards together. If you want to see what classic Barolo is about without cellaring a bottle for twenty years, this is a smart place to start.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2017 Barolo is gracious, perfumed and very nicely lifted. An effusive, floral bouquet opens first, followed by a rush of red berry fruit. Nervous, a bit wiry at this stage, the 2017 is going to need at least a few years to fully open, but all the elements are in place to allow that to happen. Maria Teresa Mascarello's Barolo is one of the most elegant and restrained wines of the year. It's not an immediately impressive or captivating wine at this stage. The purity of the flavors is just striking, though. Give it a few years to blossom." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

96 points

"Showing a light ruby shine that radiates from the glass, the Bartolo Mascarello 2017 Barolo proves once again that elegance can be achieved, despite the many challenges of an extreme vintage, when worked by the right hands. In this case, the hands are those of Bartolo's daughter, the legendary Maria Teresa Mascarello. This celebrated Barolo boasts a silky sheen and glossy character that transcends bouquet and mouthfeel. Wild cherry, lilac, iron ore and candied orange peel are revealed softly on the bouquet. The wine takes a few minutes to open before all those pretty little details come into view. Acidity is an important component of this graceful Barolo, as it ties together the fruit and heightens that sense of electricity and liveliness. This is a collectors' bottle to keep safely in your cellar." —Monica Larner

Decanter

96 points

"In 2015, Maria-Teresa Mascarello uprooted the estate's San Lorenzo vines, which no longer feature in this impressive blend. The 2017, as with the exceptional 2016, instead includes grapes from Monrobiolo di Bussia. Harvest was completed on 23 September, more or less two weeks earlier than average. In the winery, the maceration was reduced from the usual 40-50 days to 20. Subdued rose and tar notes are joined by a leafy lightness, then a crystalline definition of red berries in both aroma and flavour. Velvety tannins and assertive acidity hold the wine in tension and balance, powered by orange savouriness. It's more delicate and less extracted than 2016, but with similar ageing potential."

Wine Spectator

93 points

"A light-bodied, fluid style, offering steeped cherry, licorice, earth and menthol flavors. This is approachable now, courtesy of the lithe tannins and softer structure, yet there's intensity as well. Shows fine harmony overall."

Kerin O'Keefe

97 points

"Camphor, dark spice, cedar and a whiff of sun warmed hay slowly shape the enticing nose. The full-bodied palate boasts weightless finesse and a great depth of flavors, featuring ripe Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and a hints of tobacco framed in firm but refined tannins. Drink 2025–2032." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Bartolo Mascarello

Bartolo made a name for himself resisting the modernizing trends in the region, encapsulated by a message he put on a hand-drawn bottle label: “No Barriques, No Berlusconi”. He died a few years ago but the domain is now in the gifted hands of his daughter Maria Theresa, who has raised the profile even further with a series of fabulous vintages. Still hewing rigorously to tradition (long macerations, and no barriques!), they are one of the very few domains to still release just one Barolo made from a blend of all their parcels (as was generally the case before single vineyard cuvees started to appear in the 1960s). 30% of the Barolo comes from Rocche di Annunziata in La Morra; the rest from three different vineyards in the commune of Barolo: Rue, San Lorenzo and Cannubi.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2017

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, agnolotti del plin in roast juices, tajarin with butter and shaved truffle, rosemary-roasted lamb, or aged Castelmagno and Parmigiano.

Tasting Profile

Expect classic, traditional Barolo: Nebbiolo's red cherry, dried flowers and tar, with licorice, dried herbs and earth. Typically medium-bodied and lighter in colour than its power suggests, with firm, fine-grained tannins and lively acidity, finishing long, dry and savoury. Think the structure of serious Bordeaux on the lighter, more perfumed frame of red Burgundy.