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Cappellano, Barbera d'Alba, 2017

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
$59.99
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This is Barbera from one of Barolo's most traditional houses, made by a family that won't let it out the door until they think it's ready. Cappellano bottles and releases its Barbera only when the family judges the time is right. They describe it as a wine that reveals itself slowly, the way strong-charactered reds do, so a 2017 with some years behind it is the kind of bottle this approach is built for. Cappellano's Barbera comes from the family's Gabutti vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba, the Barolo village with more limestone in its soils than any other. Augusto Cappellano is the fifth generation here. He farms just four hectares naturally, a size that lets the family look after every vine. The family says its Barbera is always recognisable but different every year, and they put that down to natural farming and an artisanal approach. Cappellano also refuses ratings and marketing on principle, which says a lot about who these wines are made for.

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More about Cappellano

Serralunga is extreme. No village in Barolo produces wines of greater structure and longevity. We understand that has to do with its soils, as no village in Barolo has a greater concentration of limestone.

When dealing with such a lion of a terroir, it must be tempting to find a whip that will tame the beast. For a wine-maker, that could be barriques, or short macerations, or roto-fermentors. Those are the short-cuts.

Augusto Cappellano, like his father Teobaldo before him, does not take those short cuts. Partly, that's because he is just fine with structure and longevity. That is the natural product of Serralunga's special terroir, after all. Partly, it's because Augusto's extremely high-quality farming (the family has only four hectares so they can apply their natural farming methods assiduously to each and every vine) ensures that the grapes' tannins ripen properly, avoiding any of the harsh, bitter qualities that for years many assumed were also "natural."

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Barbera

  • Vintage

    2017

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with sausage ragù, agnolotti del plin in butter and sage, braised beef with polenta, or a wedge of aged Castelmagno.

Tasting Profile

Expect a classic, traditional Barbera: sour cherry, red plum and dried herbs with a savoury, earthy edge. It is typically medium-bodied, with Barbera's signature bright acidity and gentle tannins carrying the soft fruit to a long, dry finish. Think restrained old-school Piedmont rather than a plush, fruit-forward Barbera.

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