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Clandestin, Champagne Les Passagers Haut de Val Barmont Brut Nature, NV [2023]

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
$154.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles
This is Champagne from a winemaker who learned his trade in Meursault, bottled with zero dosage so the site has nowhere to hide. Benoit Doussot came from Burgundy with no family vines. He worked with Jean-Philippe Fichet in Meursault from 2012 to 2016, then spent four years with Bertrand and Hélène Gautherot at Vouette & Sorbée. He founded Clandestin (the name means "hidden" or "undercover") in 2015 with certified organic growers in seven villages who had been selling their grapes to the local co-ops. His team picks every parcel by hand and vinifies each one separately in Landreville, in the Barséquanais. He also mapped the hillsides with soil scientists Claude and Lydia Bourguignon, which can mean splitting a single hectare into three sections, with Portlandian limestone near the top and Kimmeridgian layers mid-slope. Les Passagers Haut de Val Barmont is a Brut Nature from the 2023 base, and with no sweetening to round it off, you taste exactly what the site gave. If you love white Burgundy and want to know what that way of thinking does to Champagne, this is the bottle to open.

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More about Clandestin

Clandestine means kept secret or done secretively, especially because illicit.

Everyone loves being in on a secret, which is exactly how we felt when we "discovered" the newest wine from Bertrand Gautherot, the winemaker for one of our favorite champagne houses: Vouette et Sorbée.

At first, Bertrand’s rigorous biodynamic farming made him an oddity in the Aube, a region where most farming had been industrial, yielding huge quantities for the large Champagne houses. But Bertrand’s mastery of the local terroir, and the incredible results of his chemical-free regime, led neighbors to ask for his help.

Now Gautherot and his assistant, Benoit Doussot, have taken advantage of those relationships to begin Champagne Clandestin. All Clandestin’s fruit comes from organic vineyards grown on Kimmeridgian soil. The winemaking is natural, like at Vouette et Sorbée.

See all Clandestin wines

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What has to say about this wine:

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Raw oysters with mignonette, scallop crudo with citrus and olive oil, warm gougères, aged Comté, or sole meunière.

Tasting Profile

Expect a taut, bone-dry Blanc de Blancs: lemon, green apple and white flowers over a chalky, saline limestone edge, with a fine, persistent mousse. With zero dosage the acidity runs bright and the palate stays lean and focused, finishing long, mineral and very clean. Think of the precision of a good Chablis, with bubbles.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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