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Cidrerie du Vulcain, Trois Pepins, 2024

Cider from Switzerland, Switzerland
$32.99
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Three pips, three fruits: Trois Pépins is Jacques Perritaz's most famous cuvée, an equal-parts blend of apples, pears and quinces — the pear brings roundness and minerality, the apple brings tension, the quince brings that floral perfume. Perritaz himself shrugs that the blend is "a bit random but it works well," which is about as Swiss an understatement as you'll find. He was a biologist for the Swiss Government before he stumbled into cider, setting up a small mill in an old tile factory in Gruyère in 2000 and building it on foraged fruit from untreated, high-branched trees (1.8 to 2 meters), growing on deep molasse over Valais schist or moraine gravel mixed with brown clay. The method is patient and hands-off: partial fermentation with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, a couple of light filtrations to land on the right residual sugar, then a natural prise de mousse in bottle and barely any sulfur (around 20mg/L). It's labelled sec and it drinks dry. The cidrerie takes its name from the vulcain — the red admiral butterfly that feeds on the juice of fallen apples, and which you'll find on the label. Perritaz says this one wants two to three years in bottle, so there's no rush.

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More about Cidrerie du Vulcain

Jacques Perritaz is a former biologist for the Swiss Government who quite literally stumbled upon cider making. Jacques lives in the small village of Fribourg in the world famous dairy producing region of La Gruyère. Some years ago while hiking nearby he came upon a small grove of apple trees and notice all the fruit was just rotting on the ground. Always the preservationist he began to investigate and discovered that these trees were 150 to 200 years old and produced ancient, heirloom varieties of cider, or cidre apples and pears. So Jacques went to work figuring out how to make cider and found that these ancient trees were all over the place and none of the owners had the time or desire to pick the fruit. The project was basically a fun hobby until he took a trip to Normandy and paid a visit to the great Eric Bordelet. It was here that he realized that making excellent, traditional and natural cider was actually a viable commercial enterprise. He took some extremely valuable lessons from Bordelet and went back to Switzerland to begin turning his hobby into a professional Cidrerie. We're happy to report that it has been a rousing success! Jacques is a very meticulous cider producer. He sources only the best, heirloom varieties mentioned above (everything is fully organic, though not certified) and ferments them carefully with only native yeasts. He keeps some fresh juice on hand in case fermentations get stuck, since this can lead to outbreaks of brett. The results are dry to off dry ciders that are full of saline minerals and a real sense of crisp, Alpine air. They are the perfect apertif and so refreshing that they go great with pools and beaches too. But don't hesitate to pair them with a whole range of foods, from cheese to fried chicken!

Wine Details

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

A natural with the cheeses of its home turf — Gruyère, raclette, fondue — and with roast pork and mustard, choucroute, or a ham and butter baguette. Also lovely with fried chicken, pork rillettes, buckwheat galettes with egg and cheese, or a plate of oysters.

Tasting Profile

Dry and lightly sparkling. Aromas of pear, honey, hay and white flowers. The palate is fruity and tart, lightly spiced, with a crisp, clean finish.