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Domaine de Montrieux, Verre des Poetes, 2013

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Pre-phylloxera Pineau d'Aunis from the winemaker known as "the Pope of d'Aunis." That's about as close to the source as this peppery, under-the-radar Loire grape gets. Émile Hérédia earned the nickname for the wines he made at Domaine de Montrieux, and Le Verre des Poètes was one of his old-vine cuvées. This 2013 comes from vines that date back to before phylloxera. The name means "the poets' glass," and it's more than a pretty phrase: Hérédia's great-grand-uncle was the French poet José Maria de Heredia. If Cabernet Franc is the only Loire red you know, this is a very different and very rewarding detour, all pepper, herbs and crunch. It's also a chance to drink a bottle from the grower who built his reputation on this grape.

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More about Domaine de Montrieux Ariane & Co.

Here is the single most important thing to know about Domaine de Montrieux: Émile Hérédia made Pineau d'Aunis from ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines planted around 1870. Among Loire natural-wine lovers that made him something of a cult figure, and he was nicknamed "the Pope of d'Aunis."

Hérédia founded the domaine in 1999 on about seven hectares between Villiers-sur-Loir and Naveil, near Vendôme, in the Coteaux du Vendômois. The vines grow on south-facing slopes of flint and clay over limestone. He is a distant cousin of the López de Heredia family of Rioja, and the poet José-María de Heredia was his great-grand-uncle (fittingly, his labels carried poems by great French writers). From the start he farmed organically, worked the soil and picked by hand. In the cellar the reds were fermented whole-bunch with long macerations, and with little or no added sulfur.

The wines are old-fashioned in the best sense: deep and concentrated from those ancient vines, with a wild, peppery side and plenty of life. The flagship is Le Verre des Poètes, from the oldest Pineau d'Aunis. Hérédia left the estate after the 2014 vintage, so his bottlings are now finite; the property has since passed to Ariane Lesné, who fell for Montrieux's Pineau d'Aunis before she bought it.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pineau d'Aunis

  • Vintage

    2013

  • Size

    750ml

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Steak au poivre, grilled lamb chops with rosemary and thyme, pork sausages with Puy lentils, roast chicken with herbes de Provence, a board of saucisson and pâté de campagne.

Tasting Profile

A peppery red with white- and red-pepper notes and a herbal edge. The tannins are crunchy.