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Fritz Haag, Riesling Kabinett Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr #13, 2022

White Wine from Mosel, Germany
$119.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles
A Kabinett from the Juffer-Sonnenuhr is an unusual bottle: Fritz Haag normally keeps this Grand Cru for its GG and for Prädikat wines from Spätlese upward. That makes this a chance to taste Brauneberg's best ground at Kabinett weight, which is lighter, more delicate and easy to drink with dinner. The Juffer-Sonnenuhr is the choicest centre of the hillside and its steepest, most south-facing stretch: blue Devonian slate running down to the bank of the Mosel, entirely surrounded by the Juffer. The Juffer's name has a story worth knowing. It's local dialect for "old maid" and dates to 1790, after the three unmarried daughters of the owner, Kammerherr Wunderlich, who took over running the vineyard from their father. And "Brauneberg" itself, the "brown mountain," was only adopted in 1925, named for the colour of the slate, when the village dropped its old name of Dusemond. Oliver Haag, who took over from Wilhelm Haag, grows nothing but Riesling. The house credits the slate and the pronounced acidity for its wines' elegance and their staying power, so this is worth a few years in the cellar.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2022 Riesling Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Kabinett was harvested from old vines on a terraced parcel. The nose is a beguiling combination of smoke and Amalfi lemon purity with overtones of crushed lemon leaf. The palate is rounder, sweeter, more luscious than the nose suggests, brimming with ripest Mirabelle jelly, yet the lemon never disappears, adding juiciness, precision and serene, pristine, luminous length. Available at auction: 450 bottles, 12 magnums." —Anne Krebiehl MW

More about Fritz Haag

Fritz Haag's vineyards sit along the slopes of the Brauneberger hill and the vineyards of Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr. Brauneberger, named for the light brown slate that is the dominant soil type here, faces almost entirely south which makes it a bit easier to get fully ripe Riesling in the classically cold, wet Mosel. That has changed a bit recently of course, but this is still a prized site for wines that perfectly balance finesse and power, complexity and airy drinkability.

Like all the top Mosel producers, Fritz Haag produces a range of wines including some very rich, late harvest dessert wines. These wines put the region on the map for luxury wine in the 17 and 1800s, making some Mosel Riesling more pricey and coveted than first growth Bordeaux. But in truth the wines that the locals drank, especially in the summer, were generally off dry to completely bone dry.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Thai larb or green papaya salad; Sichuan dan dan noodles; Dungeness crab with brown butter; smoked trout on rye with crème fraîche; pork schnitzel with a cucumber salad.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Mosel Kabinett profile: green apple, white peach and lime, with a smoky, slate-driven minerality. Typically light-bodied and delicate, with a gentle off-dry sweetness held in check by the house's trademark racy acidity, it should finish fresh, long and clean, and is built to gain depth with a few years in the cellar.

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WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!

Learn more about German Wines