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Girolamo Russo, Calderara Sottana, 2022

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The deepest and darkest of Russo's single-contrada bottlings. Calderara Sottana sits near Randazzo at around 700 meters on Etna's north slope, planted on the black sciara sand of old lava flows, with some vines pushing well past a century. Giuseppe Russo took over the family estate when his father Girolamo — a charcoal seller who grew grapes on the side — died in 2005, and he has built Calderara into the structured, savory anchor of his lineup. Nerello Mascalese with a touch of Cappuccio, aged in large barrel without makeup. 2022 was warm but balanced; the old vines kept the freshness intact. This is the Russo to lay down — five to ten years will reward you.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2022 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is dusty, with a beguiling blend of rose petals and geraniums giving way to cloves and woodland berries. Cool-toned and pliant, this maintains its floral character throughout while adding hints of sour citrus that add primary depths. Calderara Sottana minerality and gripping tannins come through on the finish as the 2022 leaves the senses saturated, while a resonance of brown spice lingers on. Have patience with this beastly effort—it may be even better with time." —Eric Guido

Robert Parker

94 points

"The Girolamo Russo 2022 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio from 90-year-old plants at a moderate 500 meters in elevation. The wine reveals a dark ruby color with plenty of shine. Mineral nuances are laced throughout its elegantly lean-bodied finish. You also recognize wild cherry, redcurrant and a spicy hint of clove. It ends on a finely polished note that adds to an enduring sense of length. This is a release of 3,000 bottles." —Monica Larner

Decanter

92 points

"From 50-year-old alberello vines. Aromas of morel cherry, tobacco, dried red flowers and a hint of tobacco introduce a medium-full palate with excellent ripeness. The fruit has a bright sweetness to it, supported by medium-weight, sleek tannins and very good acidity. Beautifully integrated wood notes lead to a delightfully persistent finish dominated by ripe cherry, and notes of fig and currant. Approachable now, but better in another year." —Tom Hyland

More about Girolamo Russo

Giuseppe Russo inherited his father Girolamo's 18 hectares on Etna's north face near Passopisciaro. A musician before a winemaker, he returned to honor his father's legacy when Girolamo passed. Now certified organic, he crafts refined Sicilian wines from volcanic terroir. Etna's diurnal shifts, mineral soils, and sea breezes create wines that rival Burgundy in complexity and finesse.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nerello Cappuccio , Nerello Mascalese

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Braised oxtail, wild boar ragù, grilled lamb chops with rosemary, mushroom risotto with aged pecorino, or a slow-cooked beef cheek. Worth an hour in a carafe.

Tasting Profile

Black cherry, dried fig, smoked herbs, iron, tar, crushed volcanic rock. Medium-bodied with serious grip — fine but firm tannins, a long savory finish that says old vines and lava soil.