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Hofgut Falkenstein, Krettnacher Euchariusberg Kabinett Alte Reben AP #8, 2016

$59.99
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The Webers made exactly one cask of this wine in 2016 — a single thousand-liter Fuder, and no more. Alte Reben is not a flourish on the label here: the fruit comes off their block of roughly eighty-year-old ungrafted Riesling in the Gross Schock, the south-turning sector of the otherwise west-facing Krettnacher Euchariusberg, where deeper soil lets the roots go down and a constant cold draft keeps the acidity intact. It was block-harvested at 87 degrees Oechsle — ripeness plenty of estates would have declared Spätlese — and built only from the first, gentlest pressing, then left to ferment on wild yeasts in its own cask. Erich Weber and his son Johannes bottle every Fuder separately without blending, which is why the AP number is effectively this wine's name. From a private cellar, and at ten years old it is in a lovely place: the fruit has begun to turn smoky and honeyed while the acid holds everything upright, with easily another decade in front of it.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"This residually sweet Euchariusberg Kabinett (the A.P. #8) – one of three in the present collection – issued from ungrafted vines so old that the Webers thought it worth calling attention to, despite all of the (other) old vine parcels they farm. “Nobody knows how old these are,” noted Erich Weber, adding that “the grapes already display fantastic aromatics.” Cress, oregano and wintergreen accent white peach on a generous nose and a luscious yet stone-starched, palpably extract-rich yet delicate palate. (The juxtaposition of green herbs and peach, as Johannes Weber pointed out, is not dissimilar to that familiar from the similarly exposed Scharzhofberg.) This superbly concentrated elixir finishes with vibrant, near-mouth-shaking persistence and a lip-clinging mineral character that you will struggle to remove." —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

95 points

"From old, ungrafted vines, the 2016 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben (AP #8) has a deep, pure and flinty-scented bouquet of perfectly ripe fruits and crushed stones. This is a gorgeous and highly promising bouquet. Lush and intense but still lithe on the palate, with an almost endless flow of juice, this is a pure, rich and complex Euchariusberg with a long, aromatic finish. Tasted March 2018." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Hofgut Falkenstein

The Webers bought this Saar estate in 1981 and decided to do everything in barrel—fermentation, elevage, everything. No tanks at all. Each Fuder gets bottled separately, a restoration of old-time practice that lets you taste the micro-variations between casks from the same site. Minimal intervention since 2021-certified organic; this is Mosel winemaking as philosophy.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2016

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Smoked trout or mackerel, schnitzel with a hard squeeze of lemon, Alsatian tarte flambée, choucroute garnie, or young goat cheese on rye.

Tasting Profile

Lime peel, white peach and wet slate, now with the smoky, honeyed edge a decade in bottle brings. Feather-light on the palate, well under 10% alcohol, with piercing but ripe acidity and just enough sweetness to read as fruit rather than sugar. Long, stony, faintly salty finish.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!