Morgeot makes the broadest, most unctuous whites in Chassagne, and Les Fairendes is the most renowned sector within it — a vineyard within a vineyard, where poorer topsoil drives a deeper mineral expression than the land around it. Jean-Marc Pillot owns a quarter-hectare here planted in 1970, and he has deliberately been picking it a touch earlier in recent vintages to counterbalance the richness the site naturally produces; what you get is the combination of textural generosity and firm acidity that defines his house style. It is made the way all his whites are: plowed, herbicide-free vineyards, hand harvest, barrel fermentation with a measured 10–30% new oak, twelve months on the fine lees, then six months settling in stainless before bottling. 2016 was the year of the devastating late-April frost in the Cote de Beaune, and the small crop that survived gave concentrated, well-proportioned wines; a decade on, this one has grown into itself. From a private cellar rather than the domaine, and ready to drink now.