The Lapierres bottled a Juliénas for only three vintages — 2016 through 2018 — and this is the first of them, now a decade in bottle and drinking beautifully. Marcel Lapierre and his gang didn't just invent what we now call natural wine; they resurrected a region that had become known for nothing but cheap industrial bottlings, and since his death in 2010 Mathieu and Camille have kept every part of it going. The Juliénas fruit came from five hectares of 60-year-old vines on volcanic soils shot through with schist, which gives it more stuffing and grip than the estate's Morgon — semi-carbonic fermentation with indigenous yeasts, aging on fine lees in old Burgundy barrels, unfiltered, with sulfur kept to almost nothing. 2016 was a bruising year of frost and hail in Beaujolais, but the wines came in fresher and finer-textured than the riper 2015s, which is exactly what has let this one age so gracefully. Sourced from a private cellar; it's in a lovely mature place right now and has no rush about it.