NETA bottles tiny, single-family batches of agave spirit from Miahuatlán, the southernmost of Oaxaca's central valleys, and names the maker on every label. It is about as close as mezcal gets to grower Champagne.

Max Rosenstock spent years from around 2012 getting to know small producers around the village of Logoche; Niki Nakazawa joined him as CEO, and NETA launched in 2019. Each release is a single batch of a few hundred liters at most. NETA labels them destilado de agave, staying outside the official mezcal certification, but the methods are fully traditional: earthen pit ovens, wooden fermentation tanks, small copper pot stills.

Many bottlings are capón, from agaves whose flowering stalk was cut and left to ripen for months, concentrating sugar in the heart. Expect intense, layered spirits that change from family to family. Sip them neat.