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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey (PYCM), Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Hommage A Marguerite", 2017

White Wine from Burgundy, France
$269.99
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A Premier Cru white Burgundy from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the producer who helped rewrite what white Burgundy could taste like, and Saint-Aubin is a smart way into his lineup. PYCM was an early master of a style that has since become popular. He uses less oak, partly thanks to larger demi-muid barrels, skips lees-stirring, picks earlier and allows a bit more reduction, all in pursuit of chiseled precision rather than fat richness. Back in 2008, Jancis Robinson wrote him up under the headline "Making Chassagne more like Riesling," and that still sums up the house better than we can. Pierre-Yves is the eldest son of Marc Colin and made the wine at his father's domaine from 1994 to 2005. He then started his own domaine with his wife Caroline Morey, and his sons Mathis and Clément have since joined. Across the range, fermentations run on native yeast in barrel, and nothing is fined or filtered before bottling. If you like your white Burgundy taut and mineral rather than buttery, this is your bottle.

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Antonio Galloni

90 points

"(one-third each Les Combes, en Créot and Les Perrières, all harvested after the rain; aging entirely in 350-liter barrels, 25% new): Perfumed, precise aromas and flavors of white peach, flowers and crushed stone. The palate offers lovely concentration and spice character as well as a light touch, with harmonious lemony acidity contributing to the impression of inner-mouth perfume. This very nicely balanced wine finishes with good length and grip. Colin first made this blend in 2016 owing to the tiny quantities of fruit produced by these three parcels, naming the wine after his paternal grandmother, who died a few days before the frost of 2016. As he found the blend to be more than the sum of its parts, he decided to continue producing it in subsequent vintages." —Stephen Tanzer

Robert Parker

92 points

"Colin has elected to produce a 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Cuvée Marguerite, a blend of the lieux-dits En Créot, Les Combes and Perrières that debuted after the 2016 frost. Exhibiting aromas of pear, fresh mint, white flowers and blanched almond, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, with tangy acids and a chalky finish. Pierre-Yves Colin described the 2017 vintage as "pure and transparent," with the wines nicely defined by their terroirs. They are, he adds, "more charming than I imagined—less 'cold' in style." Old vines, he says, produced notably more interesting musts than younger plantings, an observation borne out along the Côte. Colin began picking early, on August 28, as usual privileging freshness; though I wonder if a successful experiment with picking his Corton-Charlemagne a little later than had been his habit suggests that the stylistic pendulum may be about to subtly swing at this address? In any case, he has produced a successful range, true to the strong house style, though showing comparatively little overt reduction when I visited after the harvest. As ever, no distinction is made on the labels between domaine and négociant wines, and Colin is increasingly taking responsibility for farming the parcels from which he purchases fruit."

Jancis Robinson

17.0 points

"Smells a little more oaky than Le Banc. A touch reductive but so slight the fruit still shines. Taut and a little less rounded than Le Banc but with the same precision and freshness. Amazing length, and a touch of spice on the finish." —Julia Harding MW

More about Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey (PYCM)

One of Burgundy's benchmark winemakers. Since establishing his 13-hectare domaine in 2001, PYCM has become a reference point for white Burgundy: less oak (bigger barrels), no lees-stirring, earlier picking, aiming for chiseled precision rather than fat richness. Ranked with Coche, Lafon, and Leflaive at the pinnacle, his Chassagne-Montrachets and Meursaults taste crystalline and pure.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Seared scallops with brown butter, sole meunière, roast chicken with tarragon, lobster risotto, or a wedge of aged Comté.

Tasting Profile

A dry Chardonnay made in the PYCM house style, which puts precision ahead of richness. Expect a mineral, tightly wound white with restrained oak, lively acidity and a clean, focused finish. A hint of struck-match reduction is typical of the house.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2017

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.

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