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Prager, Grüner Veltliner Achleiten Smaragd, 2007 (1.5L)

White Wine from Wachau, Austria
$139.99
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Aged Grüner Veltliner is something most drinkers never get to try, and this is a serious example: a 2007 Smaragd from Achleiten, one of the Wachau's most famous vineyards, in magnum. Achleiten is a steeply terraced slope just east of the village of Weissenkirchen, farmed since Roman times. In places there's only about 40 cm of topsoil over bedrock of gneiss, amphibolite and slate, which is why Toni Bodenstein calls it "destroyed soil." Smaragd is a ripeness category for dry wines that only members of the Vinea Wachau may use, and it requires at least 12.5% alcohol. Fittingly, Franz Prager helped found that association. Bodenstein married into the family after Franz had already made the estate's name, and his devotion to biodiversity and the old terraces pushed Prager into Austria's top rank. With well over fifteen years behind it, and the slower ageing a big bottle allows, this is one to open with a table of curious friends who want to see what Grüner does with time.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"Medium green-yellow. Inviting yellow apple, apricot and honeydew melon with subtle pepper and tobacco nuances on the nose. Full-bodied and powerful, with sweetly extracted fruit and a silky texture. Very well-balanced thanks to juicy acidity. Sweet tropical fruit and dark wet slate linger long on the finish. Already surprisingly approachable yet possesses tremendous aging potential. Best between 2010 and 2022." —Peter Moser

Wine Enthusiast

94 points

"A glorious, ripe, spicy wine that keeps its origins clear with its tight edge of stone and steel, which brings the acidity under the sweet pear and yellow berry fruits. With its rich, round finale, this is a firm but opulent wine. Imported by Vin Divino." —Roger Voss

More about Prager

Today, you will find Weingut Prager on any short list of Austria's best growers. Prager, founded in 1717, would have made that list in the 1950's, thanks to Franz Prager's innovations. But it is his son-in-law, Toni Bodenstein, who has elevated the domaine to rock-star status. Toni, a biologist, geologist and historian, has gone to great lengths to study, document and preserve the Wachau. He was lucky enough to inherit a wealth of old vines in prime vineyards. But he has also purchased, revived and replanted some of the region's highest and most difficult to cultivate sites. He focuses on biodiversity, and has built a "living museum" of Gruner Veltliner and Riesling bio-types. That wealth of genetic material isn't just of academic interest. It makes for some of the world's most delicious Riesling and Gruner. While Toni would say the wines are made in the vineyard, it's also true that he is a talented winemaker of a purist bent: "controlled" spontaneous fermentation, short aging on the lees (in stainless steel only), allow each plot's terroir to shine through. While fairly reductive when young, they are built to age in the bottle.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Gruner Veltliner

  • Vintage

    2007

  • Size

    1.5L

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Wiener Schnitzel with warm potato-and-cucumber salad; seared halibut or turbot with brown butter; roast pork loin with caraway and braised cabbage; sautéed spring vegetables with morels.

Tasting Profile

Expect a concentrated, full-bodied dry Grüner in the Prager style: ripe stone fruit and white pepper alongside grassy, herbal and wildflower notes, with a mineral thread from the Achleiten soils. With bottle age, Wachau Smaragd typically picks up honeyed, nutty, savoury depth but keeps its firm acidity and long, dry finish. Think the weight of a mature white Burgundy, only spicier.

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