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Rijckaert, Arbois Savagnin, 2023

White Wine from Jura, France
$31.99
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Savagnin without the funk — this is the Jura's signature grape played straight, all tension and salinity rather than oxidative nuttiness. The fruit comes off plots of varied exposure on grey and iridescent blue marlstone from the early Bajocian, the classic Jura marl that Savagnin was practically designed for, farmed organically. Jean Rijckaert built this estate in two halves — 4 hectares around Viré in the Mâconnais in 1998 after a decade running the cellar at Verget, then 5 hectares in and around Arbois — and he keeps a separate cellar for each, the Jura wines made at Villette-lès-Arbois next door to the appellation's capital. Having no heir, he met Florent Rouve at a Saint-Véran tasting in the early 2000s and gradually handed over the winemaking, formally in 2013; the domaine calls this cuvée a full varietal expression of Savagnin and a very lively wine, which is exactly the register Rouve works in. If your only experience of Savagnin is a sherry-adjacent vin jaune, this is the other half of the story, and a genuinely approachable way in.

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Antonio Galloni

88 points

"The 2023 Arbois Savagnin opens with fresh lemon flesh, pastry and mild white peach flashes. Uplifting and crisp, it offers gentle flavor concentration and nervy tension on the medium-length finish." —Nicolas Greinacher

More about Rijckaert

Jean Rijckaert spent a decade as technical director for the negociant Verget before launching his own project in 1998 with 4 hectares around Viré in the Mâcon, then acquiring 5 hectares of prime Savagnin, Chardonnay, and Poulsard in Arbois. Florent Rouve officially took over in 2013, but the winery still follows Jean's minimalist blueprint: native yeasts, minimal lees stirring, 18+ months aging before bottling. Pure, mineral, serious whites from Burgundy and the Jura.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Savagnin

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Earthy

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Comté (the older the better), chicken in cream and morels, trout with brown butter and almonds, gougères, roast pork with mustard sauce, or a bowl of mussels.

Tasting Profile

Dry and lively. Brisk acidity and a distinctly salty, mineral finish that goes long and clean rather than nutty or oxidative.

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