Oiry is the Grand Cru village next door to Cramant that rarely gets a label of its own — Aurélien Suenen used to fold this fruit into the blend behind his C+C bottling, then decided the differences between his plots were the whole point and gave Oiry its own wine. It's one of only two non-vintage cuvées he makes, and the leaner, more chiselled of the pair: where the C+C is rich and broad, this is all cut and chalk. Suenen took over the family estate in 2009 and bottles nothing but Blanc de Blancs, farming primarily organically with some biodynamic practices but refusing to sign up to any one school — he treats them as reference points for a system built around his own terroir. Vinification runs to roughly a quarter in oak of various sizes and the rest in the old enameled steel tanks, and the wine is finished Extra Brut, so there's nowhere for a flaw to hide and nothing padding the finish. Grower Champagne at its most honest: a village you've probably never seen on a label, from a producer with no interest in getting bigger.