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Taittinger, Champagne Comtes de Champagne, 2006

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
$299.00

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This is where Taittinger puts its best Chardonnay. Comtes de Champagne is made only in exceptional years, entirely from the five Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs, and only from first-press juice. It's a blend of villages more than anything else. Taittinger's vineyard director says Avize brings delicacy, Chouilly tender fruit, Cramant softness, Oger sunshine and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger an austere depth that only shows itself with time. In 2006 just 5% of the wine spent three to four months in new oak, which is seasoning rather than a statement. The rest of its time was spent on the lees in 13th-century chalk cellars that once belonged to the abbey of Saint Nicaise. The house singled out the 2006 for its mix of maturity and finesse and for its ability to age, and nearly two decades after the harvest is a good time to find out what that means. Vitalie Taittinger, who runs this family house with Clovis Taittinger, calls the cuvée a poem. We'd say it shows how much Chardonnay can say at just 12% alcohol. Pour it into white-wine glasses rather than flutes.

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Antonio Galloni

98 points

"The 2006 Comtes de Champagne is in a great spot. Baked apple tart, spice, chamomile, marzipan, slate and chalk confer tremendous vibrancy and power throughout. Bright saline notes play off the natural exuberance of the year. The 2006 was spectacular on release. It is all that today, too." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

96 points

"Tasted almost two years after disgorgement, the 2006 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs shows a beautiful golden-citrus color and opens with a fascinating intense, floral, slightly reductive nose that develops enormously in the glass, offering lemon and lemon confit aromas along with flinty notes of crushed chalk and the iodine flavors of the Atlantic Ocean. This is an utterly complex and promising bouquet! The palate is terribly fresh but also rich, lush and intense, with the purity of the finest wines of the Côte de Blancs, the concentration of perfectly ripe Chardonnay and the suppleness of 2006. This has impeccable balance paired with high tension. The wine is very tight and still seems to be on its way right now. Although there is a first hint of aromatic ripeness, this should be a great Comtes de Champagne in a couple of years. The finish is tensioned, concentrated and mineral but keeps its talents in an almost bursting bubble. Disgorged September 2016; tasted May 2018 (lot L6316UM13600)." —Stephan Reinhardt

Jancis Robinson

18 points

"Ingredients from 'top grands crus' including Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger. Warm summer and a harvest that began on 7 September in mild, damp conditions. A lovely bottle drinking beautifully now. Tight bead, neat composition, lemon-flavoured and creamy-textured. Still very fresh indeed for an 18-year-old wine." —Jancis Robinson

Decanter

95 points

"A cold winter and scattered frost were followed by a hot, dry July. August rains cleared in time for the two weeks of dry, warm weather before a harvest in near-perfect conditions from 11 September. The Comtes is softly rich and lush, with an elegant, approachable ripe apple fruit, a hint of buttered toast and a firm mineral underpinning. Although the texture is somewhat soft, this wine has plenty of extract and potential for ageing."

More about Taittinger

Founded in 1734, Taittinger is one of the few remaining family-run Champagne houses, now run by great-grandchildren Vitalie and Clovis. Third-largest vineyard owner in Champagne, they plant 48% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier. The Comtes de Champagne is all-Chardonnay magic.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    Champagne , 2006

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Raw oysters, langoustines with brown butter, turbot in beurre blanc, lobster risotto, warm gougères, or a wedge of aged Comté.

Tasting Profile

Dry, medium-bodied Blanc de Blancs in an elegant style that mixes maturity with finesse.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

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Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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