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Weingut Knoll, Dürnsteiner Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd, 2007

White Wine from Wachau, Austria
$79.99
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Knoll's Smaragd wines are famously slow to show themselves, which makes a 2007 Kellerberg, now well over a decade on, exactly the kind of bottle worth hunting down. Knoll is often called the greatest estate in Austria. The house style is clear, precise and mineral-driven rather than flashy, and these wines need a long time to unwind. Kellerberg is one of the Wachau's great sites: steep, south-east-facing terraces climbing to about 1,100 feet above the town of Dürnstein, with orthogneiss bedrock and scattered loess. It's a vineyard known for dense wines that age for a very long time, and Knoll is one of the producers working it. Most of these bottles get opened far too young. This one is a chance to taste what all that patience is for.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"I can’t think of too many better ways to start a meal than with a Riesling, and just about anything from Austria’s star producer Emmerich Knoll is as great a place to start as any. Knoll’s 2007 Ried Kellerberg Dursteiner Smaragd Riesling is drinking beautifully, offering exotically ripe aromas and flavors of mandarin orange, ripe peach and cardamom. It’s a rather Rubenesque beauty, concentrated and full-bodied, but with enough lively acidity to keep it in balance. Its finishing notes of smoky minerals match well with the complex Parmigiano dish and it has enough sweetness to stand up to the “almost too much of a good thing” foie gras dish (if you’ve never seen or eaten a foie gras popsicle look-alike, this is the place!). Though this Riesling is likely to be long-lived, Knoll’s Kellerberg Smaragd always strikes me as approachable earlier than its Schütt stablemate, and especially so in 2007." —Ian D'Agata

Robert Parker

90 points

"Lime and sweet corn in the Knoll 2007 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg put one in mind of Deidesheim. (Please excuse the German comparisons, but in a Wachau Riesling vintage with the brightness of 2007 they come naturally.) This wine harbors a notable sense of sheer extract and while it presently lacks the signature peppery pungency of Kellerberg, it offers a sense of salt and crushed stone in the finish. I wonder whether it, too, needs a year or two in bottle to blossom (or to be tasted on another day) but I suspect it will be best drunk within 4-5 years ." —David Schildknecht

More about Weingut Knoll

Weingut Knoll produces some of the Wachau's best Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. With a classical bent and a reputation for top-tier Smaragd wines (the Wachau’s top classification for quality, signifying the ripest grapes), Knoll is a winery for not just lovers of Austrian wines to seek out, but lovers of compelling, textured, and mineral-laden white wines.

There's a density to Knoll's wines (though they are never heavy) that keeps varieties which sometimes present as wispy and ethereal tethered firmly to the soil. They are sleek and fine, with an understated power; each wine is a snapshot of the vintage, the site, and the variety.

Tightly wound and rippling with tension, Knoll’s wines will benefit from time in the bottle. Drink the Federspiels now, and put the Smaragds away for even a few years, and you’ll be very satisfied as acidity and body meld, acid relaxes, and complexity unfolds.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2007

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Wiener schnitzel with potato salad; trout with brown butter and almonds; veal in a cream and mushroom sauce; choucroute garnie; roast pork belly with apples.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Wachau Smaragd Riesling profile: stone fruit, citrus peel and a pronounced stony, mineral edge, in a dry, medium-bodied, precise frame with firm, bright acidity. With bottle age these wines typically pick up honeyed, petrol and dried-herb notes while keeping their tension, finishing long and saline. Think of a drier, more structured cousin of Alsace Riesling.

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