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Wirth Michel, Champagne Blanc De Blancs Extra Brut "Nuances De Blanc", NV

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
$104.99
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Wirth-Michel makes only about 10,000 bottles a year. Nuances de Blanc is his all-Chardonnay cuvée. It comes from Vinay, Moussy and Brugny in the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay rather than the Côte des Blancs, in a small area where 15 of Champagne's 27 officially counted subsoils turn up. The vines are farmed organically and ploughed by horse, and 70% of the estate's plantings are massal selections, old genetic material that keeps yields very low. The house ferments and ages this cuvée in 600-liter barrels, lets malolactic happen and keeps dosage to 2 grams per liter, so the texture comes from wood and lees rather than sugar. Antonin runs his mother's family domaine. His grandfather Alain stopped making wine there in 1999, and he is also the scion of the well-known grower José Michel. This is small-grower Champagne at its most personal, and a smart bottle for anyone who wants their Blanc de Blancs bone-dry but with real depth.

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More about Wirth Michel

Meunier usually plays the supporting role in Champagne. At Wirth-Michel it's the star, and the family has the pedigree for it: Antonin Michel's paternal grandfather was José Michel, one of the pioneers of serious Meunier in Moussy.

The estate itself comes from his mother's side. His great-great-grandfather founded Wirth et Fils, which stopped producing when his grandfather Alain retired in 1999. In 2000 Antonin's mother, Nathalie, a university biology professor, revived it as Wirth-Michel, and Antonin, after wine-business studies and stints at Leclerc Briant and with Olivier Lamy in Burgundy, took over in 2019. It's a tiny operation: about four hectares spread across Moussy, Vinay, Brugny-Vaudancourt and Saint-Martin-d'Ablois in the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay, a corner of Champagne with a patchwork of chalk, clay, silex and marl subsoils.

The vines are farmed organically, with biodynamic influences and some horse plowing, and most are massal selections kept to low yields. The wines are raised in a mix of 600-liter barrels, steel and concrete. Everything is bottled Extra Brut. Origines is the Meunier-led calling card, Les Meuniers de Raoul is a pure-Meunier Blanc de Noirs, and Nuances de Blanc is a Blanc de Blancs. Expect dry, direct, vinous Champagne.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Raw oysters with mignonette; gougères; sole meunière; Dungeness crab with drawn butter; aged Comté; chicken liver mousse on toast.

Tasting Profile

Expect a Blanc de Blancs with more breadth than the lean Côte des Blancs norm: lemon, baked apple and pear, with toasty, nutty notes from barrel ageing and lees. Malolactic softens the edges, but with so little dosage the palate stays taut, with a fine mousse and chalky grip, finishing bone-dry, long and savoury.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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