Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!
GERMAN WINE REGIONS:
Julian Haart, Riesling J.J. Kabinett, 2020
This Kabinett is known as “J.J.” – not (necessarily) an homage to J.J. Prum but to Julian’s son and many of his ancestors, all of whom are called “Johan Josef”. This is 100% Grand Cru Goldtropfchen, made in the traditional German prädikat style: “fruity” as the Germans like to say, while we would more likely say “off dry”. Julian Haart is a genius wine-maker. He learned to make wines from the very best: Egon Müller and Klaus Peter Keller. He remains best friends with Keller and would no doubt be happy to be thought of as the Klaus Peter Keller of the Mosel. Certainly some people already think of him that way. His approach is extreme rigor: constantly tweaking, constantly experimenting, both among the vines and in the winery.
A friend introduced me to Apremont Vin de Savoie last summer and I’ve been seeking it out ever since. It’s a nice dry white that pairs with food (I’m a vegetarian) or is perfect for an aperitif.
It was light, flavorful and a lovely color.
A good choice for a summer meal when you might want a red, slightly chilled.
I’m sure this is going to sell out quick. Tissot is in another league. Incredible!
The most elevated champagne from a remarkable vintage. Happy to nab a box of these from Flatiron Wines after a tumultuous search this year!
Delightful, complex rose. Not just for summer.
I learned of this wine in Eric Asimov's recent Wine School article in the New York Times. I was unfamiliar blended Burgundy whites, this one 70-percent Pinot Gris and 30-perdent Chardonnay, although a previous Wine School article about Bordeaux whites led me to the excellent Chateau de France. I am not a sophisticated wine taster but I found the Dessus Les Gollardes to be a Burgundy version of the Chateau de France, lighter and dryer than Chardonnay, crisp and refreshing. I shared it with a discerning friend who agreed. One amusing note is that the Dessus Les Gollardes is imported by Kermit Lynch in California so in my case it journeyed from Burgundy to Berkeley, then to Flat Iron in New York, and the back to me in Santa Monica, a long trip.
Chateau Pradeaux, Bandol Rose, 2021
Clean and crisp
Nice acidity, green apple and grapefruit on the back end, fair price point
I’m such a sucker for a savory rosé, so Bandol is usually a go-to, and this doesn’t disappoint! Spiced strawberry and lean melon on the nose unfurl to a mineral-laden mouthful, with light green herbs and a touch of sanguine deliciousness over a long, concentrated, balanced finish. Cuts the heat of summer right down but I’m grabbing a few for fall.
Classic Krug — some seriously high-quality grape — but it needs another 5-10 years to come together. Far too lean for this House right now, but still plenty enjoyable and drinkable during the summer at the $200 pricepoint.
Some Sangioveses can be dark, dense, and tinged with cola flavors. That's fine, but I prefer Chianti in this style: bright, pretty, elegant. Classy for sure, but the fruit profile makes it almost gulpable. I get notes of sour cherries, some tar, and a faint hint of amaro-like herbal bitterness.
Light in body ,notes of petroleum,sweet but balanced acidity at the finish .
Super lively and unique an overall amazing bottle from start to finish.
I live in New Zealand and bought this wine for my son, who lives in NYC, for his birthday. Felton Road is a winery in Central Otago, New Zealand and is well known for it’s exceptional Pinots. I definitely recommend any of the Felton Road wines, you won’t be disappointed.