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Alain Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage, 2023

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In Crozes-Hermitage there's really only one reference point, and it's Alain Graillot. In almost any vintage, his straight Crozes is one of the best values in the Northern Rhône. Graillot came home to the appellation in 1985 after working with Jacques Seysses at Domaine Dujac, and that Burgundy training still shows: the house buys its barrels, one to three years old, from top Burgundy estates. His sons Maxime and Antoine have run the domaine since 2008, and they haven't changed anything that matters. The 2023 is 100% Syrah from vines more than 30 years old at Les Chênes Verts, the domaine's home ground in Pont-de-l'Isère, and the farming is practicing organic. It was fermented entirely as whole clusters with native yeast in concrete, then aged in used barrels with no new oak anywhere. It's traditional winemaking, but Graillot's Crozes has always been clean, pure and delicious young, which is exactly why we keep reaching for it.

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More about Alain Graillot

What exactly does it mean to be a reference point wine? Is it just a synonym for "good" or "really good?" Does it mean, "old and established" or "expensive and difficult to find?"

In Crozes-Hermitage, there is only one reference point: Alain Graillot.

Clearly, then, "reference point" does not mean old, for Graillot has only been around since 1985. It also does not mean expensive: Graillot's Crozes-Hermitage remains one of the best values in the Northern Rhône, in just about every vintage.

Graillot’s wines are clean, pure and polished. They are delicious young, so it's tempting to think of them as modern. Yet, peek in the cellar, and you find nothing but tradition. They work with whole clusters and avoid new barriques, for example. It is through precision, good hygiene, and obsessive work in the fields that Graillot achieves these beautiful wines.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Syrah

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Rosemary-grilled lamb chops, duck breast with black olives, steak au poivre, saucisson and other charcuterie, or a wild mushroom ragout over polenta.

Tasting Profile

Expect classic Northern Rhône Syrah: dark cherry and blackberry with black pepper, violet and a savoury olive edge, lifted by whole-cluster fermentation. Typically medium-bodied, with fresh acidity, fine tannins and no new-oak gloss, it drinks pure and juicy young and finishes clean and peppery. Think the opposite of a big, jammy Aussie Shiraz.