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Bartolo Mascarello, Dolcetto d'Alba, 2021

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
$59.99
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I don't make wines in barriques. My wines don't have the perfume of vanilla and Limousin oak. Bartolo Mascarello's refusal to follow fashion made him the conscience of traditional Barolo, and his daughter Maria Teresa hasn't budged an inch, which is why even the house Dolcetto gets treated like a serious wine. The fruit comes from the Monrobiolo and Rue vineyards in the commune of Barolo itself, on clay over sand, tufa and limestone, farmed with composted cow manure and mown cover crops instead of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Fermentation is in concrete with indigenous yeasts and twice-daily pump-overs, followed by six to nine months in large Slavonian botti and a bottling the following July: no barriques, no shortcuts, nothing standing between you and the grape. 2021 was a cool, late, classically proportioned year in the Langhe, which suits Dolcetto well, giving more grip and darker fruit than the variety usually offers alongside its signature bitter-almond snap. Drink it over the next couple of years, ideally with something rich.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"The 2021 Dolcetto d'Alba is rich, deep and wonderfully expressive. A burst of dark cherry/plum, lavender and spice lends notable richness. In 2021 the Dolcetto marries sumptuous fruit with a total sense of classicism that is so appealing. The 2021 is a super-Dolcetto. Don't miss it!" —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

91 points

"From a vintage that was especially favorable to this varietal, the 2021 Dolcetto d'Alba shows a firm and solid quality of fruit with rich, juicy flavors of blackberry and sweet cherry. Maria Teresa Mascarello explains that Dolcetto is a very delicate grape that is extremely vintage-sensitive. It needs healthy conditions and steep diurnal temperature shifts, otherwise the berries are compromised. Unfortunately, acreage to Dolcetto is rapidly declining, she explains, because vintners prefer to plant more lucrative Nebbiolo and Barbera instead." —Monica Larner

More about Bartolo Mascarello

Bartolo made a name for himself resisting the modernizing trends in the region, encapsulated by a message he put on a hand-drawn bottle label: “No Barriques, No Berlusconi”. He died a few years ago but the domain is now in the gifted hands of his daughter Maria Theresa, who has raised the profile even further with a series of fabulous vintages. Still hewing rigorously to tradition (long macerations, and no barriques!), they are one of the very few domains to still release just one Barolo made from a blend of all their parcels (as was generally the case before single vineyard cuvees started to appear in the 1960s). 30% of the Barolo comes from Rocche di Annunziata in La Morra; the rest from three different vineyards in the commune of Barolo: Rue, San Lorenzo and Cannubi.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Dolcetto

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with butter and sage, a board of salumi and Piedmontese cheeses, pizza, braised pork shoulder, or vitello tonnato.

Tasting Profile

Violet, black cherry and plum with sweet spice. Medium bodied and dry, with juicy acidity and fine, chalky tannins. The classic bitter-almond snap on the finish.

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