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Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva, 1998

$499.00
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This is a red-label Riserva from Bruno Giacosa's home cru, now more than a quarter-century old, and that makes it classical Barbaresco at its most serious. Giacosa used two labels: white for his standard bottlings and red for the Riservas, the wines he put at the top of the house. Santo Stefano sits in the village of Neive, inside the larger Albesani vineyard area. Giacosa didn't own it. He made Barbaresco from it for decades on a long lease from the Stupino family. He was a traditionalist through and through, convinced Nebbiolo needed no French barriques or modern tweaks, only time in large oak and a real understanding of where it grew. Older bottles like this one are a big part of why collectors still hunt down his wines. Expect classy, classical Nebbiolo with genuine complexity and structure. Save it for a special dinner with people who'll appreciate what's in the glass.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 1998 is the last Barbaresco Santo Stefano Giacosa bottled as a Riserva. For years, the 1998 flew under the radar, likely a victim of a vintage that at the time was considered very good, but not great. Dried cherry, star anise, pomegranate, dried rose petal and deeply spiced notes are some of the signatures. The 1998 is deep, fleshy and quite giving in personality. In any tasting, there are bound to be wines that don’t show as well as they can. In this vertical, it is the 1998. This is a fine bottle, but I have had better." —Antonio Galloni

Wine Spectator

93 points

"Delicious. Full-bodied, with luscious, ripe plum, berry and cherry character and silky tannins, all in balance. Goes on and on. Wonderful. Always refined and inviting."

More about Bruno Giacosa

Bruno Giacosa passed away in 2018, but his legacy defines classical Barolo and Barbaresco. He was convinced that Nebbiolo doesn't need French barriques or modern tweaks—only time in large oak and genuine understanding of terroir. His golden palate earned him recognition as an 'icon of Piedmont' and a 'guardian of the traditional style,' and his wines are objects of desire for good reason. These are classical expressions of Nebbiolo made by someone who understood the grape's infinite complexity.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    1998

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with shaved white truffle or butter and sage; beef braised in Nebbiolo with polenta; roast pheasant or guinea fowl with porcini; aged Castelmagno or Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Tasting Profile

Expect classic, traditionally made Barbaresco Riserva: Nebbiolo's red cherry, violets and tar, which with long bottle age typically turn toward leather, truffle, dried herbs and forest floor. Medium-bodied but firmly structured, with bright acidity and fine tannins that soften with time, finishing long and savoury. Think a touch more perfumed and elegant than Barolo.