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Burlotto, Barolo, 2020

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Burlotto introduces its classic Barolo with a line from the architect Adolf Loos, "Ornament is a crime," and that tells you what kind of Barolo this is: the family calls it sober, rigorous and dynamic, and it isn't trying to show off. It's also the most accessible way into the flagship house of Verduno, founded in 1850 by Commendatore Giovan Battista Burlotto. Rather than coming from a single cru, it follows the old Langhe practice of blending several vineyards. Breri faces south at 240 metres. Neirane faces west, and Rocche Olmo and Boscatto face east, all three at 370 metres. Verduno is the northernmost commune in the Barolo zone, and most of these sites sit on calcareous soils with a balanced mix of clay, sand and silt that holds water well. The cellar work is the same as for the crus: long macerations with gentle extraction, then 20 to 33 months in large oak casks depending on the year, plus at least nine months resting in bottle before release. Serve it at 16–18°C (60–65°F), as the family recommends.

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Antonio Galloni

89 points

"The 2020 Barolo is a very pretty, fragrant wine. Crushed red fruit, sage, mint, dried flowers, anise and spice give this ethereal Barolo lovely aromatic presence and plenty of allure. Drink it over the next decade or so." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

95 points

"The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2020 Barolo has delicate floral aromas with almond blossom and red fruits. To the palate, the wine shows a very tight and compact texture, tonic and polished, with lingering lavender bud, some grilled herb, sour cherry, tart flavors, glossy tannins and nice acidity. This is one for the purists. Production is 11,000 bottles." —Monica Larner

Jancis Robinson

17 points

"Verduno. Pale ruby. Cool and perfumed red fruit with a peppery, minerally edge. Takes its time to open up. Elegant, fresh and with crunchy tannins weaved into the fruit. Great precision." —Walter Speller

Wine Spectator

93 points

"High-toned cherry, strawberry and pomegranate flavors are focused in this lithe red. Underscored with dense tannins but shows fine balance and a long, nuanced aftertaste. Underbrush and mineral accents complete the complex profile."

Kerin O'Keefe

92 points

"The 2020 classic Barolo from Comm. G.B. Burlotto embodies the accessible nature of the friendly vintage. It’s ethereally elegant, offering aromas of dog rose, camphor and dark spice while the graceful palate shows juicy strawberry, star anise and white pepper. Lithe tannins provide seamless support. Drink through 2030." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Burlotto

Burlotto is the flagship producer from Barolo’s Verduno area. This is a property of enormous historic importance, fabulously delicious wines, and outstanding value.

The Commendatore Giovan Battista Burlotto, one of Barolo's great characters, founded the estate back in 1850. The labels still commemorate the royal house of Savoy’s fondness for Burlotto wines, as well as the winery’s exclusive presence on Duke Luigi Amedeo's 1899 North Pole expedition. The Duke lost two fingers to frostbite, but wrote to the Commendatore a year and a half into the trip that “[t]he wine has been conserved in perfect condition.” G.B. Burlotto was also a pioneer of selling wine in bottle (rather than in cask or demijohn), as well as a champion of a now-rare but still-ravishing grape, Pelaverga Piccolo.

Four generations later, G.B.’s great-great-nephew, Fabio Alessandria, has changed little at the winery, doing some of the crush by foot, fermenting the wine in upright wooden vats, using indigenous yeast and little temperature control. We love these wines for their history, but even more for their diversity, their pure fruit, delicate structure, and signature Verduno floral aromatics and spicy palate.

The family's single-vineyard Barolos, especially the culty Monvigliero, are some of Piedmont's most lauded wines, critical and collector favorites year-in and year-out. But they continue to make extraordinary wines for Piedmont's more humble grapes (including Dolcetto, Barbera and of course, that Pelaverga), wines that don't attempt to turn those grapes into Nebbiolo blockbusters but rather that show their unique charms and terroir transparency. The sheer drinkability of these "lesser" wines is is tremendous, and the pricing for such special bottles from such top-rank grower, is shockingly accessible.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Beef braised in Barolo, agnolotti del plin in roast juices, tajarin with porcini or white truffle, roast guinea fowl, or aged Castelmagno.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic traditional Barolo profile, leaning toward Verduno's perfumed side: red cherry, violet, tar and dried herbs, with gentle spice from long ageing in large oak casks. Typically full-bodied, with bright acidity and firm, fine-grained tannins, finishing dry, long and savoury. Think Pinot Noir's perfume with far more grip.