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Burlotto, Barolo, 2022

$109.99
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In 2022 Burlotto bottled no Monvigliero, no Cannubi, no Acclivi — the whole estate went into this one wine. That makes the classic Barolo, normally the village-level introduction to Verduno's most revered traditional house, an unusually complete picture of what the family farms: Nebbiolo from Breri, Neirane, Rocche Olmo and Boscatto, on the calcareous clay-sand-silt soils of the Barolo zone's northernmost commune. Verduno's cooler, more northern position was no small advantage in a year that tested everyone, and 2022 was a challenging one. Fabio Alessandria, four generations on from the Commendatore who founded the estate in 1850, still works the old way — hand harvest, indigenous yeasts, long macerations, aging in well-seasoned botti grandi. Traditionally made and built to reward a few years in the cellar, this is a rare chance to get the estate's full hand in a single bottle.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"The 2022 Barolo is stellar. It is certainly the wine of the vintage, taking into account quality at a price that is likely to remain quite fair. The Burlotto family chose not to bottle their 2022 single-vineyard Barolos because they thought those wines were not singular enough to be bottled separately. Instead, all the lots were blended into a single wine. The 2022 offers up copious dark Nebbiolo fruit along with hints of leather, spice box, mint, blood orange and white pepper. Time in the glass does wonders, as the 2022 continues to open with a bit of aeration. It's a gorgeous wine in every way." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

96 points

"From a vintage in which Fabio Alessandria of Comm. G.B. Burlotto made the unusual decision not to bottle his individual 2022 MGA Barolos, fruit that would normally have gone into Monvigliero, Cannubi, Castelletto and Acclivi was instead blended into a single estate-wide bottling. The 2022 Barolo shows a beautiful ruby color with bright inner luminosity. The stature of Barolo comes through in the wine's aromatic intensity and refined structure, but this vintage also takes a playful approach with charming red fruit, white pepper, rosemary stems and crushed rose. The growing season presented numerous challenges, yet this wine emerges as one of the success stories of the vintage. It is a special bottling not only for its quality but also for the singular circumstances of its creation." —Monica Larner

Kerin O'Keefe

95 points

"Floral aromas of rose and violet mingle with ripe berry, grilled herb and balsamic notes of camphor on the Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2022 Barolo. The estate didn't make any of its single-site bottlings and all the grapes from their famed MGAs including Monvigliero, went into its classic Barolo, a throw back to the local tradition of finding balance by blending grapes from different sites and villages. And it worked. Full-bodied and smooth, the delicious palate delivers succulent Morello cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and dried mint alongside tightly woven, velvety tannins. A tangy blood orange note lifts the finish. Drink 2027–2037." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Burlotto

Burlotto is the flagship producer from Barolo’s Verduno area. This is a property of enormous historic importance, fabulously delicious wines, and outstanding value.

The Commendatore Giovan Battista Burlotto, one of Barolo's great characters, founded the estate back in 1850. The labels still commemorate the royal house of Savoy’s fondness for Burlotto wines, as well as the winery’s exclusive presence on Duke Luigi Amedeo's 1899 North Pole expedition. The Duke lost two fingers to frostbite, but wrote to the Commendatore a year and a half into the trip that “[t]he wine has been conserved in perfect condition.” G.B. Burlotto was also a pioneer of selling wine in bottle (rather than in cask or demijohn), as well as a champion of a now-rare but still-ravishing grape, Pelaverga Piccolo.

Four generations later, G.B.’s great-great-nephew, Fabio Alessandria, has changed little at the winery, doing some of the crush by foot, fermenting the wine in upright wooden vats, using indigenous yeast and little temperature control. We love these wines for their history, but even more for their diversity, their pure fruit, delicate structure, and signature Verduno floral aromatics and spicy palate.

The family's single-vineyard Barolos, especially the culty Monvigliero, are some of Piedmont's most lauded wines, critical and collector favorites year-in and year-out. But they continue to make extraordinary wines for Piedmont's more humble grapes (including Dolcetto, Barbera and of course, that Pelaverga), wines that don't attempt to turn those grapes into Nebbiolo blockbusters but rather that show their unique charms and terroir transparency. The sheer drinkability of these "lesser" wines is is tremendous, and the pricing for such special bottles from such top-rank grower, is shockingly accessible.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, agnolotti del plin in butter and sage, porcini risotto, roast guinea hen, or a wedge of aged Castelmagno.

Tasting Profile

Dry and medium-bodied, in the perfumed Verduno register: red cherry and rose, with tar and warm spice behind. Firm Nebbiolo tannin and bright acidity, and a long savory finish. Young — decant, or give it a few years.