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Burlotto, Barolo Cannubi, 2011

$259.00
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Verduno's flagship traditional house farms just 0.7 hectares on Cannubi, and this is where they show what their old-school methods do with a very different soil. Their parcel sits in the Cannubi Valletta section. It faces mainly east, tops out at 280 metres and grows on Marls of Sant'Agata that run so sandy here the family calls them the "white fire." The vines were replanted in 1988 from a massale selection of Nebbiolo. Fabio Alessandria, four generations on from the Commendatore who founded the estate in 1850, keeps the cellar work traditional. Across the house, some of the crush is still done by foot, fermentation runs in upright wooden vats on indigenous yeasts, and every Barolo ages in well-seasoned botti grandi. This 2011 is a rare chance to taste Burlotto's small Cannubi bottling with more than a decade behind it. Serve it at 16–18°C (60–65°F), as the family recommends.

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Antonio Galloni

92 points

"The 2011 Barolo Cannubi is quite dark in this vintage. Black cherry, plum, mocha, spice and new leather all take shape in the glass. Cannubi is a site that can suffer in warm, dry vintages, and that certainly seems to come through here. Today, Burlotto's Cannubi is a bit heavy and lacking the finesse of the very best wines in the range. Given the wine's track record I would give the 2011 at least a few years in bottle to see if the true pedigree of Cannubi can be coaxed out of the wine. A recent bottle of the 2008 was stellar. The Cannubi remains the most improved wine in the Burlotto range. As such, it continues to fly a bit under the radar, but that won't be the case forever. Within the context of recent vintages, the 2011 is an outstanding Cannubi, but not as strong as other previous editions." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

92 points

"The 2011 Barolo Cannubi shows impressive depth and balance despite the heat of the growing season. The Cannubi cru is usually one of the first to come to maturity and fruit in this vintage was picked earlier than average. These factors can downplay the natural complexity of the Nebbiolo grape. Luckily, this wine has emerged very much intact. The wine's dark appearance segues to plump aromas of blackberry and plum. The tannins deliver thicker texture, but there is a good amount of fruit density to smooth over the palate. Enthusiasts of this wine will notice that the name Vigneto Cannubi is now changed to Cannubi." —Monica Larner

Jancis Robinson

17 points

"Deep ruby with narrow orange rim. Vigorous nose that is holding back a little. Mellow, round fruit that is pulled up by acidity. Bags of cherry that develop on the finish with grainy tannic grip. Looks innocent at first and then becomes vigorous. Wonderful, chewy, grainy tannins." —Walter Speller

Kerin O'Keefe

90 points

"Here’s a fragrant Barolo that boasts aromas of rose, smoke, forest floor, berry, leather and a balsamic note. The palate shows its youth and isn’t quite as expressive as the nose, offering raw red cherry, strawberry, anise, ground pepper and grilled herb alongside tightly wound tannins." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Burlotto

Burlotto is the flagship producer from Barolo’s Verduno area. This is a property of enormous historic importance, fabulously delicious wines, and outstanding value.

The Commendatore Giovan Battista Burlotto, one of Barolo's great characters, founded the estate back in 1850. The labels still commemorate the royal house of Savoy’s fondness for Burlotto wines, as well as the winery’s exclusive presence on Duke Luigi Amedeo's 1899 North Pole expedition. The Duke lost two fingers to frostbite, but wrote to the Commendatore a year and a half into the trip that “[t]he wine has been conserved in perfect condition.” G.B. Burlotto was also a pioneer of selling wine in bottle (rather than in cask or demijohn), as well as a champion of a now-rare but still-ravishing grape, Pelaverga Piccolo.

Four generations later, G.B.’s great-great-nephew, Fabio Alessandria, has changed little at the winery, doing some of the crush by foot, fermenting the wine in upright wooden vats, using indigenous yeast and little temperature control. We love these wines for their history, but even more for their diversity, their pure fruit, delicate structure, and signature Verduno floral aromatics and spicy palate.

The family's single-vineyard Barolos, especially the culty Monvigliero, are some of Piedmont's most lauded wines, critical and collector favorites year-in and year-out. But they continue to make extraordinary wines for Piedmont's more humble grapes (including Dolcetto, Barbera and of course, that Pelaverga), wines that don't attempt to turn those grapes into Nebbiolo blockbusters but rather that show their unique charms and terroir transparency. The sheer drinkability of these "lesser" wines is is tremendous, and the pricing for such special bottles from such top-rank grower, is shockingly accessible.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2011

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Braised veal cheeks, tajarin or risotto with shaved white truffle, wild boar ragù over pappardelle, or a wedge of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Tasting Profile

Expect a perfumed, traditionally made Barolo: red cherry, violets and dried herbs, with the tar and spice typical of Nebbiolo aged in large old casks. Cannubi's sandy soils typically give finer, silkier tannins than many Barolos, though the structure stays firm and the acidity bright. With age, Barolo like this adds leather and earthy notes over a long, savoury finish.