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Cantalupo, Ghemme Collis Carellae, 2013

$79.99
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A decade-old single-vineyard Ghemme, 100% Nebbiolo, now drinking in that mature window most Nebbiolo lovers never get to buy at the source. Cantalupo bottles Collis Carellae on its own since 1983, from the historical La Carella zone, where stony soils with a vein of clay give the darker-fruited of the estate's two principal crus. The grapes get 10–15 days on the skins with frequent rack-and-return, then roughly 30 months in cask before release — no shortcuts, and Ghemme's rules wouldn't allow them anyway. The wider magic here is geological: the retreat of the Monte Rosa glacier left Ghemme with unusually complex soils, which is why these Nebbiolos taste so pointedly of dirt and carry such racy structure. The Arlunno family has farmed these hills for 500 years, long making wine only for family and friends in cellars in town; the proper winery came only when Ghemme was promoted in 1969, dug into the hillside with the soil piled back on top so the lowest rooms stay cool without machinery. If you want to know what Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo becomes with age, this is the short cut.

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Antonio Galloni

95 points

"The 2013 Ghemme Collis Carellae is brighter and also more ethereal than the Collis Breclamae. Sweet floral notes, red berry fruit, mint, sage and alpine flowers all grace the 2013. A wine of exquisite beauty, the Collis Carellae is decidedly airy, even though it has plenty of Ghemme punch too. Crushed autumn leaves, raspberry and pine all linger on the mid-weight finish. The 2013 is maybe a bit clenched, but a few years in bottle should take care of that." —Antonio Galloni

More about Cantalupo

Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo produces Nebbiolo in Ghemme in northern Piedmont's Colline Novaresi region, where the variety is called Spanna. The Arlunno family manages 34 hectares, with 80% planted to Nebbiolo across prestigious crus like Gabutti and Margheria. Their Agamium—Latin for Ghemme—ages in traditional medium-sized new oak, producing wines of real structure and age-worthiness. This is single-vineyard Nebbiolo from the ancient home to the grape, made with respect for tradition and place.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2013

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Braised beef shank with polenta, mushroom risotto, rabbit stewed with rosemary, agnolotti in butter and sage, or aged Toma and Castelmagno cheeses.

Tasting Profile

Dark cherry and dried plum with the tar, dried rose and woodsmoke that come with age. Medium-bodied but firmly built, with high acidity and fine, gripping tannins that have softened at the edges. Savory, earthy finish that lingers.