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Cappellano, Barolo Pie Franco, 2017

Name: Cappellano, Barolo Pie Franco, 2017
Brand: Private
SKU: NYC-[CNSN]-TTSUMMER0826-092226-192-21
Price: 599.00 USD
Availability: InStock

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy

$599.00

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This is Barolo from vines that were never supposed to survive. Pie Franco comes from ungrafted, own-rooted Nebbiolo Michet that Teobaldo Cappellano planted in the late 1980s in the Gabutti cru of Serralunga d'Alba, the way vines grew before phylloxera made American rootstock all but universal. Teobaldo called the planting a "backwards evolution," an effort to bring Barolo back to an idea of purity. It was also a tribute to his grandfather Giovanni, who spent his last years in Africa trying to work out whether grafting was really unavoidable. Plenty of people bet the bug would wipe out those rows quickly, but they're still there, intact and healthy. The family calls it an "irregular," seductive Barolo of extraordinary complexity that carries the stamp of Serralunga. The motto they give the wine, borrowed from Yamamoto Tsunetomo, is "The great deeds are not accomplished when sober." Augusto Cappellano, the fifth generation, farms organically and works the old way: native yeasts, very little sulfur, long fermentations, long aging in big old botti and no filtration. 2017 was a hot, record-dry year in Barolo, and spring frost cut yields, but the region's wines kept their warm-year ripeness from tipping into excess and held on to a surprising amount of freshness.

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More about Cappellano

Serralunga is extreme. No village in Barolo produces wines of greater structure and longevity. We understand that has to do with its soils, as no village in Barolo has a greater concentration of limestone.

When dealing with such a lion of a terroir, it must be tempting to find a whip that will tame the beast. For a wine-maker, that could be barriques, or short macerations, or roto-fermentors. Those are the short-cuts.

Augusto Cappellano, like his father Teobaldo before him, does not take those short cuts. Partly, that's because he is just fine with structure and longevity. That is the natural product of Serralunga's special terroir, after all. Partly, it's because Augusto's extremely high-quality farming (the family has only four hectares so they can apply their natural farming methods assiduously to each and every vine) ensures that the grapes' tannins ripen properly, avoiding any of the harsh, bitter qualities that for years many assumed were also "natural."

Wine Details

Grape Variety

Nebbiolo
Vintage

2017
Size

750ml
Farming Practice

Organic
Style

Elegant
Sweetness

Dry
Body

Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, tajarin with shaved white truffle, braised wild boar or venison, or a wedge of aged Castelmagno.

Tasting Profile

Expect traditional Serralunga Barolo: red cherry, dried flowers, tar, dried herbs and earthy spice, with the firm, grippy tannins this corner of Barolo is known for and bright, lifting acidity. Long ageing in big old botti typically keeps the oak in the background, so the fruit stays pure and the finish is long, savoury and dry. Built to age.