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Cappellano, Barolo Pie Rupestris, 2005

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
$299.00
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A 2005 Pie Rupestris made while Teobaldo Cappellano, the man who revived the estate, was still running it, from a vintage built on structure and power. The name is the point: this is Nebbiolo grafted onto American Vitis rupestris rootstock (the old fix for phylloxera), planted in the late 1940s in Serralunga's Gabutti cru. That makes it the grafted half of Cappellano's famous pair. Its counterpart, Pie Franco, comes from ungrafted Michet vines that Teobaldo planted in the same cru in the late 1980s. Only the heart of the family's Gabutti holding goes into this bottling, because fruit from the lower third of the slope is kept back for their Barolo Chinato. The label leaves off the word "Gabutti" altogether, in protest at the cru's boundaries being expanded. Serralunga has more limestone than any other Barolo village, which goes a long way to explaining the backbone and staying power of its wines. The family farms just four hectares, naturally and vine by vine, and makes no concessions in the cellar: long macerations and large casks, with no barriques, short macerations or roto-fermenters. The producer calls this wine "severe and authoritative, austere but generous," and a back-vintage bottle from the Teobaldo years is a rare chance to see what that means with some age on it.

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More about Cappellano

Serralunga is extreme. No village in Barolo produces wines of greater structure and longevity. We understand that has to do with its soils, as no village in Barolo has a greater concentration of limestone.

When dealing with such a lion of a terroir, it must be tempting to find a whip that will tame the beast. For a wine-maker, that could be barriques, or short macerations, or roto-fermentors. Those are the short-cuts.

Augusto Cappellano, like his father Teobaldo before him, does not take those short cuts. Partly, that's because he is just fine with structure and longevity. That is the natural product of Serralunga's special terroir, after all. Partly, it's because Augusto's extremely high-quality farming (the family has only four hectares so they can apply their natural farming methods assiduously to each and every vine) ensures that the grapes' tannins ripen properly, avoiding any of the harsh, bitter qualities that for years many assumed were also "natural."

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2005

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Brasato al Barolo, braised veal cheeks, tajarin with white truffle, roast pheasant or guinea hen, and aged Castelmagno.

Tasting Profile

Expect traditional Serralunga Barolo at its most classical: sour cherry and dried violets alongside liquorice, tar, balsamic and spice notes, with an earthy, undergrowth edge. Long maceration and large casks mean no vanilla gloss, just firm, grippy tannins, high acidity and a savoury, austere frame that typically finishes long and dry, built for the long haul.

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