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Cappellano, Barolo Pie Rupestris, 2009

$269.00
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Filippo Cappellano, a lawyer, founded this estate in 1870, gradually acquiring 60 hectares—the main square in Serralunga d'Alba bears the family name. Augusto Cappellano, fifth generation, succeeded his father Teobaldo (one of Barolo's most outspoken traditionalists) in 2009. The estate is "one of Barolo's most legendary producers, producing ultra-traditional styles of Nebbiolo." The Gabutti vineyard's four hectares in Serralunga sit on limestone-rich clay soils—"there is more limestone in Serralunga than anywhere else"—giving immense structure and age-worthiness. Winemaking eschews modern interventions: indigenous yeast fermentation in cement tanks and open-top Slavonian casks for 14-21 days, aging three years minimum in old botti, bottled unfiltered and unfined. Piè Rupestris represents vines planted on grafted rootstock in the 1940s. The 2009 was a warm, challenging vintage with variable results—quality depended on individual winemaking decisions. Cappellano's traditional approach preserved Nebbiolo character. Rich, generous, built for decades.

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More about Cappellano

Serralunga is extreme. No village in Barolo produces wines of greater structure and longevity. We understand that has to do with its soils, as no village in Barolo has a greater concentration of limestone.

When dealing with such a lion of a terroir, it must be tempting to find a whip that will tame the beast. For a wine-maker, that could be barriques, or short macerations, or roto-fermentors. Those are the short-cuts.

Augusto Cappellano, like his father Teobaldo before him, does not take those short cuts. Partly, that's because he is just fine with structure and longevity. That is the natural product of Serralunga's special terroir, after all. Partly, it's because Augusto's extremely high-quality farming (the family has only four hectares so they can apply their natural farming methods assiduously to each and every vine) ensures that the grapes' tannins ripen properly, avoiding any of the harsh, bitter qualities that for years many assumed were also "natural."

Wine Details

  • Vintage

    2009

  • Size

    750ml

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Beef stew, roasted game meats, aged hard cheeses

Tasting Profile

Dark cherry, spice, tar, leather notes. Full body with structured tannins and earthy finish.