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Cerbaiona, Brunello di Montalcino, 2004

Red Wine from Tuscany, Italy
$329.00
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A 2004 Brunello di Montalcino from the Diego Molinari era at Cerbaiona, the cult estate we rank near the top of the small group just behind Soldera and Biondi-Santi. Molinari spent 25 years as an Alitalia pilot, retired, and bought this small Montalcino property in 1977. The vineyard itself had been known locally for nearly 200 years before the Brunello DOCG put it on the world stage. His approach was traditional and hands-off: native-yeast fermentations in concrete, ageing in large oak casks, and room for Sangiovese grown on rocky gravel over galestro (limestone shale), alberese (calcium-rich marl limestone) and sand to speak for itself. He sold the estate in 2015 at 84, so no more bottles from his time will ever be made, and this is one of them. If you want to taste what built Cerbaiona's reputation, this is the bottle to save for an occasion.

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Antonio Galloni

97 points

"One of the unquestioned stars of the vintage, Cerbaiona's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is every bit as impressive as it has always been. An intense dark red to the core, the 2004 boasts remarkable depth, power and richness. Today, the 2004 remains incredibly young and almost primary in its flavors. The 2004 captures all of the potential I sensed when it was a young wine. If anything, I may have underestimated it! Readers lucky enough to own the 2004 are in for a real treat, as it is an epic bottle." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

87 points

"Cerbaiona’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino was poured during my visit by Matthew Fioretti to underline how far the estate has progressed since he assumed leadership in 2015. Under the previous ownership of the celebrated Diego Molinari, winemaking spaces were cramped, Brettanomyces could be an issue and, most critically, many back vintages were stored in an unconditioned chapel exposed to the setting sun, leaving numerous bottles compromised. This example shows flat, tired aromas with faded fruit and oxidative notes, failing to reflect the inherent quality of the excellent 2004 vintage. Awarded 97 points upon release, this bottle has unfortunately not held up as expected." —Monica Larner

More about Cerbaiona

Montalcino's twin peaks are Soldera and Biondi-Santi, but there's a small handful of estates that are gaining reputations as being right behind those two super-stars. At the top of the list is Cerbaiona. Diego Molinari, former owner and winemaker, has a similar story to Gianfranco. He retired after 25 years as an Alitalia pilot and bought a small estate in Montalcino in the late '70s. He has always been committed to traditional, "hands-off" winemaking. The wines are fermented with native yeasts in concrete and aged in large oak casks. The result is world-class Sangiovese, aromatic, elegantly-fruited and balanced by good structure and underlying savory minerality.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Sangiovese

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Bistecca alla fiorentina, pappardelle with wild boar ragù, beef braised in red wine, porcini risotto, aged Pecorino Toscano.

Tasting Profile

Expect traditional Brunello di Montalcino: sour cherry, dried roses, leather, tobacco and earthy, savoury notes, with no sweet new-oak gloss thanks to large-cask ageing. Typically full-bodied yet poised, with firm, fine-grained tannins, lively acidity and a long, dry finish. With bottle age, the style typically moves toward forest floor and dried fruit.

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