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Chateau De Verreux, Arbois Chardonnay, 2023

White Wine from Jura, France
$84.99
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This Chardonnay comes from the château where France's appellation system started. Joseph Girard came up with the Arbois AOC here, and in 1936 Arbois became the country's first official AOC. Girard's path to winemaking was an odd one. He graduated from the École Polytechnique and worked as a railway director, an insurance executive and a banker before settling in Arbois, where he had spent his holidays for years. When he died in 1955, his funeral notice skipped all of those titles and simply read "Winemaker in Arbois." He left no heirs, and the château sat in joint ownership for fifty years until it fell into ruin. Today's owners bought it and now farm 9 hectares of vines in Arbois under Demeter biodynamic certification, with organic conversion also under way. They say they want their wines to carry the mark of the land, showing it honestly rather than shaping it. Arbois is in the Jura, in eastern France between Burgundy and Switzerland, and Chardonnay sits in the estate's range next to the region's own grapes, Poulsard, Trousseau and Savagnin. For a Jura white with a better backstory than most, this is a very good place to start.

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Robert Parker

90 points

"The 2023 Arbois Chardonnay was produced pressing the full clusters from 1.3 hectares of vines planted between 1993 and 1997 on gray marl Lias soils in the lieux-dits of En Brut, Monteiller and Source de Brut. The juice was let to settle and then fermented in 225- and 400-liter oak barrels, 10% of them new, where the wine matured with less without bâtonnage for one year. It has good ripeness, 13.5% alcohol, and a clean and precise style, varietal with integrated oak, some spiciness and limited Jura character." —Luis Gutiérrez

More about Chateau De Verreux

Château de Verreux is a story of revival: the eighteenth-century house on the edge of Arbois was once home to Joseph Girard, the man who championed the Arbois appellation, often called the first AOC in France. After Girard's death the estate sat abandoned for decades. It's now a protected monument under restoration, and since 2023 wine is being made there again.

The project brings together Arbois native Vincent Richard, who founded it in 2021, winemaker Vincent Remillet, who spent more than a decade at Domaine du Pélican before joining, and Yann Greset. The roughly nine hectares sit on grey marls, limestone-rich clay full of marine fossils, which gives the wines freshness and a faint saline edge. Farming is biodynamic, with certification underway.

In the cellar the approach is light-handed: native-yeast fermentations, gentle macerations for the reds and very little sulfur. The range covers Arbois's five grapes one by one (Chardonnay, topped-up "ouillé" Savagnin, Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau) plus a blend called Symbiose. Expect bright, transparent wines that show the Jura's freshness rather than its oxidative side. It's a young estate with deep roots and one to watch.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Aged Comté or Morbier; trout with brown butter and almonds; chicken in a cream-and-mushroom sauce; gougères; a baked potato gratin with Jura cheese.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Arbois take on Chardonnay: lemon, green apple and orchard fruit with a savoury, lightly nutty edge and a stony, mineral streak. Typically medium-bodied with bright, lively acidity, it finishes dry, clean and persistent. Think of it as a leaner, more savoury cousin of white Burgundy.