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Chateau De Verreux, Arbois Pinot Noir, 2023

Red Wine from Jura, France
$81.99
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If the Jura's pale, delicate reds usually leave you wanting a bit more grip, this is the Château de Verreux bottle to reach for. Their Pinot Noir has real tannic backbone. It comes from 0.8 hectares of vines in the lieu-dit En Brut, planted in 1999. For the 2023 the team went for a long five-week maceration but kept the extraction gentle, fermenting in stainless steel with native yeasts and 20% whole clusters. The wine then spent 10 months in 225- and 400-liter oak barrels. The house farms 9 hectares in Arbois under Demeter biodynamic certification. It also comes with good history: former owner Joseph Girard came up with the idea for the Arbois AOC here, and in 1936 Arbois became France's first official appellation. Girard went to the École Polytechnique and worked as a railway director, insurance executive and banker, but his funeral notice simply read "Winemaker in Arbois."

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Robert Parker

88 points

"The 2023 Arbois Pinot Noir comes from 0.8 hectares planted in the En Brut lieu-dit in 1999. It fermented with 20% full clusters in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and had a gentle extraction and long maceration of five weeks, then the wine matured in 225- and 400-liter oak barrels for 10 months. It has a deeper color and a nose dominated by oak aromas, with some notes of strawberry candy. Despite the contained 12.5% alcohol, it feels a little heavy, with marked tannins, and shows quite lactic. It's too oaky and lactic for my taste." —Luis Gutiérrez

More about Chateau De Verreux

Château de Verreux is a story of revival: the eighteenth-century house on the edge of Arbois was once home to Joseph Girard, the man who championed the Arbois appellation, often called the first AOC in France. After Girard's death the estate sat abandoned for decades. It's now a protected monument under restoration, and since 2023 wine is being made there again.

The project brings together Arbois native Vincent Richard, who founded it in 2021, winemaker Vincent Remillet, who spent more than a decade at Domaine du Pélican before joining, and Yann Greset. The roughly nine hectares sit on grey marls, limestone-rich clay full of marine fossils, which gives the wines freshness and a faint saline edge. Farming is biodynamic, with certification underway.

In the cellar the approach is light-handed: native-yeast fermentations, gentle macerations for the reds and very little sulfur. The range covers Arbois's five grapes one by one (Chardonnay, topped-up "ouillé" Savagnin, Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau) plus a blend called Symbiose. Expect bright, transparent wines that show the Jura's freshness rather than its oxidative side. It's a young estate with deep roots and one to watch.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Coq au vin; seared duck breast with a mushroom sauce; saucisse de Morteau with lentils; roast chicken with morels and a splash of the wine in the pan; aged Comté.

Tasting Profile

Expect red cherry, raspberry and redcurrant with a savoury, earthy edge and a little spice from the whole clusters. Typically light to medium-bodied with bright, fresh acidity, but with firmer tannins than most Jura reds, and barrel ageing adds gentle roundness rather than obvious vanilla. Think of a cool, savoury village Burgundy that finishes dry and lifted.