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Clos du Mont-Olivet, Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Cuvee du Papet, 1998

Red Wine from Southern Rhone, France
by Clos du mont Mont Olivet
$109.99
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This is Chateauneuf as it was meant to taste with three decades on it. The label reads a little scrambled, but the wine is the real thing: Clos du Mont-Olivet's La Cuvee du Papet is made only in the finest years from a selection of their oldest Grenache parcels (some vines planted over a century ago). And 1998 is one of the Southern Rhone's legendary vintages, warm and structured, a year built to go the distance. This old-vine, Grenache-dominant red is now fully, gorgeously mature. Pour it for someone who thinks they've had CdP but has never had one with this kind of age. A rare chance to drink a benchmark cuvee at its peak.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"Bright red-ruby, darker than the normale Deep, fresh, highly complex nose combines raspberry, meat, iron and pepper ("a great wine to serve with game," notes Sabon). Huge, lush, smooth and deep; a step up from the basic cuvee in concentration, length and grip. Very dense but utterly seamless, with wonderfully restrained sweetness. Finishes with palate-saturating but very fine tannins and superb length. "Wait at least ten years to drink this," Sabon advises. This is from 100-year-old grenache vines planted on clay and chalk soil in the lieu-dit Mont-Olivet, with about 5% to 10% syrah and a bit of mourvedre added "for our pleasure," according to Sabon." —Stephen Tanzer

Robert Parker

91 points

"The two bottles opened for this report were both totally shut down and impossible to judge, which struck me as unusual. One of my all-time favorite Chateauneuf du Papes is their 1990 Cuvee du Papet, and I thought the 1998 had a chance to behave in that manner, never closing down and always being drinkable. This wine exhibits a dark plum/ruby color, with hints of garrigue, new saddle leather, tapenade and kirsch, but it shuts down tight in the mouth. It is medium to full-bodied, has weight, purity, and richness, but it is just not singing. No matter how much aeration I gave it, nothing seemed to come forward, making judgment virtually impossible. Whatever the reason for it, I thought this was just bizarre. The mysteries of wine - may they never end!" —Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Wine Spectator

94 points

"Dark and smoky, with bacony toast, cedar, mesquite grilled beef and chestnut notes leading the way for a core of solid currant and plum fruit. Shows some brawn, along with a gamy hint, on the rich, dark fruit-filled finish. Approachable now, but a little more cellaring won't hurt."

More about Clos du mont Mont Olivet

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Red Blend

  • Vintage

    1998

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Sweetness

    Dry

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Slow-roasted lamb, daube provencale, game and venison, wild mushroom stew, or aged hard cheeses.

Tasting Profile

Dried cherry, fig, garrigue herbs, leather, and sweet spice; full-bodied but soft and resolved, with mellow tannins and a warm, savory finish.