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COS, Zibibbo In Pithos, 2024

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A bone-dry, skin-fermented Muscat — proof that Sicily's most perfumed grape doesn't have to end up sweet. Zibibbo is the Sicilian name for Muscat of Alexandria, and COS grow theirs on a flat plateau of red sand in the Fontane district outside Vittoria, planted in 2014 and farmed organically and biodynamically without irrigation. The fruit ferments on wild yeasts and macerates on its skins for a month, then spends six months on the lees in pithos — the terracotta amphorae, here 300 to 450 liters, that Giusto Occhipinti revived from Sicily's ancient winemaking, porous enough to let the wine breathe but neutral enough to add no flavor of its own. That long skin contact changes what Muscat does: the grapey perfume stays on the nose, but it arrives with tannic grip, a savory edge and a dry, faintly bitter finish rather than any sweetness. At 11% alcohol and around 500 cases, this is a light-footed, food-hungry orange wine rather than a heavy one. Serve it cool but not cold, and in a real glass.

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Kerin O'Keefe

93 points

"Made with biodynamic farming methods and vinified and aged in terracotta amphorae, this opens with heady aromas of white rose, sea brine and yellow stone fruit. Fermented spontaneously with wild yeasts, it’s delicious, enveloping and loaded with personality, doling out, ripe apricot, lime, yellow peach and black olive underpinned by intense salinity. Fresh acidity lifts the smooth, glycerine-like structure. Drink or hold for even more mineral depth." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about COS

If you had to pick a single producer responsible for the Sicilian renaissance, it would be COS. They were the first to show the world that Sicily's artisanal side is not just delicious, but worthy of the kind of attention nobody would ever pay to the island's mass-produced Nero d’Avola. They launched a revolution.

COS was founded by three men whose last names start with C, O and S. The "O" — Giusto Occhipinti (uncle of Arianna)— has been the driving force at the domaine, introducing organic and biodynamic techniques and obsessing over the correct vessels for elevage.

Giusto found the perfect farming and winemaking methods to express their unique Vittoria terroir. Soils in this part of Etna have a layer of red clay over a limestone substrate. With the reliable weather you have ideal conditions for producing consistently fresh and balanced wines. It’s no wonder that wine has been produced in this corner of Sicily for almost 3,000 years!

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Zibibbo

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Style

    Earthy

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Built for the table: couscous alla trapanese, fried sardines with caponata, chicken tagine with preserved lemon, Sichuan or Thai takeout, or ricotta salata with cured olives.

Tasting Profile

Apricot, orange peel, honeycomb, lavender and lemon balm — unmistakably Muscat on the nose, then bracingly dry on the palate. Medium-bodied and amber-hued, with fine skin tannin, soft acidity and a savory, faintly bitter finish.