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Daniel Twardowski, Pinot Noir Ardoise, 2017

$89.99
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Antonio Galloni

90 points

"Ripe dark cherry and blackberry mingles with piquant green herbs, smoky black tea and sweaty salinity on a penetrating nose and a palate whose graininess in part reflects oak exposure and in part Twardowski’s utilization of roughly one-third clusters with stems. The finish offers a striking and rare combination of powerful grip with lift borne of a mere 12.2% alcohol. The sweaty notes translate into welcome tang and salivary stimulation. It remains to be seen the extent to which this gains textural allure with time, and I have remained very conservative in my quantified prognosis for bottle evolution. (I have been remiss in past reviews for not appending the word “Ardoise” – French for slate – to this wine’s name, as it has always appeared in small letters beneath “Pinot Noix.” For those new to Twardowski’s wines, the “x” in “Pinot Noix” is not a misprint but an allusion to the nut trees associated with the first of his Dhron Pinot Noir vineyards.)" —David Schildknecht

More about Daniel Twardowski

Way back in 2006, Daniel started the first 100% Pinot Noir focused Mosel estate in over 100 years. Working on the intensely steep Dhroner Hofberg, Daniel budded over ancient Riesling root stock with cuttings from some of the top terroirs of Burgundy. A barrel dealer by trade, Daniel has access to the best wood and he ages his wines exclusively in used DRC barrels. In the glass, the wines offer a beguiling tension between power and cut. They are intensely aromatic, bursting with black and red fruits balanced by a unique slate-infused mineral core.

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WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!