Pinot Noir grown on the blue slate of a Mosel Grand Cru site — and the estate's top bottling, made in strictly limited quantities from parcels where old Riesling vines were green-grafted over to Pinot. That's the whole idea here: rather than chase Burgundy, Daniel Twardowski wanted the filigree of slate-grown Riesling to show up in a red, and he does it in a side valley at the western end of the Mittelmosel near Neumagen-Dhron, where steep parcels are constantly ventilated by cool wind off the Hunsrück. The Réserve's grafted old-vine plots sit at the top of the estate hierarchy, above its Burgundy-clone plantings. The name comes from the ravens that crack nuts on the bare slate — noix is French for nut — which is why a raven sits on the label. This is a tiny, serious wine from one of the more single-minded projects in Germany, and it belongs with the Mosel's great whites rather than in some novelty category.