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Dirupi, Valtellina Superiore Inferno Vigna Guast, 2020

Red Wine from Other Italy, Italy
$84.99
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Nebbiolo grown on an alpine cliff face, at up to 650 meters — roughly 200 meters higher than much of Barolo — which is exactly why Valtellina Nebbiolo tastes like nothing else in Italy. Inferno is the steepest, hottest-sounding of the valley's subzones, and this is a single-vineyard bottling from Vigna Guast within it, sandy gravel topsoils draining fast and big rocks in the vineyard soaking up the day's heat to soften the cold mountain nights. Dirupi — the name means "cliff" — is the work of Davide Fasolini and Pierpaolo di Franco, childhood friends from the valley who went off to study enology in Milan and came home to piece together 18 ancient vineyard parcels across Grumello, Inferno and beyond. That's the story of the modern Valtellina in one label: young people choosing to farm terraces that are far too steep to be worth farming, and making wines of real seriousness from them. For anyone who loves Nebbiolo and hasn't yet drunk it from the mountains, start here.

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More about Dirupi

Dirupi is the story of two kids from Sondrio who swam against the tide. Davide Fasolini and Pierpaolo Di Franco came back to the Valtellina to make wine. The two grew up playing basketball together and later both studied winemaking at the University of Milan. They started the winery in 2004 with no family vineyards and very little money, renting a handful of small, steeply terraced plots high in the Alps.

The Valtellina is Lombardy's great mountain valley, just south of the Swiss border, where Nebbiolo (called Chiavennasca locally) grows on south-facing stone terraces so steep that everything is done by hand. Dirupi's parcels sit at roughly 400 to 650 meters, some with very old vines, and the partners learned much of their craft from the elderly growers who used to farm them. They farm organically, with several wines now certified, and the cellar is in a historic palazzo in Ponte in Valtellina.

The range climbs from the bright, juicy Rosso di Valtellina "Olé!" to a Valtellina Superiore blended from many plots, and on to single-vineyard bottlings from the Grumello and Inferno subzones. There is also a Sforzato made from partly dried grapes and a Nebbiolo sparkling rosé. Across the board, this is Alpine Nebbiolo: fresh, perfumed and lighter on its feet than Barolo, with real mountain energy.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Braised beef with polenta taragna, pizzoccheri (the valley's buckwheat pasta with cabbage, potato and Valtellina Casera), roast duck, mushroom risotto, or a plate of bresaola with good olive oil.

Tasting Profile

Much lighter on its feet than Barolo. The finish is long, cool and more mineral than fruity.

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