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Dirupi, Vino Sforzato Di Valtellina Sbagliato, 2022

Red Wine from Other Italy, Italy
$144.99
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Sforzato is Valtellina's dried-grape red, and the rules make it a test of patience: the grapes can't be crushed until 1 December at the earliest. Even so, it's a dry wine, not a sweet one. Think of it as the Alps' answer to Amarone, made from the grape behind Barolo. Dirupi's version comes from vines up to 100 years old, grown at 600–650 metres on sand, silt and clay. The vines are farmed organically and entirely by hand, on terraces held up by stone walls built about 1,000 years ago. Davide Fasolini and Pierpaolo di Franco grew up together in Sondrio and came home after studying enology in Milan. They named the estate Dirupi, "cliff," after the extreme high-elevation alpine terroir. This is a big, wintry wine, and it's a great way for Amarone or traditional Barolo lovers to get into a style too few people know.

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More about Dirupi

Dirupi is the story of two kids from Sondrio who swam against the tide. Davide Fasolini and Pierpaolo Di Franco came back to the Valtellina to make wine. The two grew up playing basketball together and later both studied winemaking at the University of Milan. They started the winery in 2004 with no family vineyards and very little money, renting a handful of small, steeply terraced plots high in the Alps.

The Valtellina is Lombardy's great mountain valley, just south of the Swiss border, where Nebbiolo (called Chiavennasca locally) grows on south-facing stone terraces so steep that everything is done by hand. Dirupi's parcels sit at roughly 400 to 650 meters, some with very old vines, and the partners learned much of their craft from the elderly growers who used to farm them. They farm organically, with several wines now certified, and the cellar is in a historic palazzo in Ponte in Valtellina.

The range climbs from the bright, juicy Rosso di Valtellina "Olé!" to a Valtellina Superiore blended from many plots, and on to single-vineyard bottlings from the Grumello and Inferno subzones. There is also a Sforzato made from partly dried grapes and a Nebbiolo sparkling rosé. Across the board, this is Alpine Nebbiolo: fresh, perfumed and lighter on its feet than Barolo, with real mountain energy.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Pizzoccheri (Valtellina's buckwheat pasta with potatoes, cabbage and melted cheese), beef braised in red wine, venison or wild boar stew, osso buco, or aged Bitto or Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Sforzato profile: dried cherry, plum and raisin layered with violet, tar, alpine herbs and a hint of spice. Typically full-bodied and warming yet fully dry, with Nebbiolo's firm tannins and bright mountain acidity keeping it fresh. Think of a more savoury, high-altitude cousin of Amarone, finishing long and earthy.