The 2002 is one of the last vintages Jacques d'Angerville made. He joined the domaine at his father Sem's request in 1950 and died in July 2003, after 52 harvests. Champans is the site where the house's famously restrained Volnay picks up some flesh. It was historically ranked among Volnay's "Têtes de Cuvée," and the family calls it the archetype of great Volnay premier cru: finesse, breadth and length, plus a generosity and power of its own. The domaine's 3.98 hectares are two parallel parcels running from the top of the southeast-facing slope to the bottom, in the middle of Volnay's premiers crus. Up top the soil is poor, on a rocky limestone bench, and it turns deeper, clayey and stony as the slope eases. Jacques's father was no small figure either: he was a founding member of the INAO. Sem fought fraud among the Beaune négociants, in court when he had to, and when they stopped buying his crop he became one of the first to bottle at the domaine and sell direct. The family reckons Champans needs five to ten years to show fully, and this bottle is well past that, a chance to drink the end of one generation's run just before Guillaume took over.